Adapter plate

[Atilla the Fun]

I guess I'll extend it down another 1/2", just to be leaving more steel to attach a starter to. Or starter brackets.
I've found a mill I might be able to use for making a bunch of final versions to sell. Using the jig saw not only left ragged edges that don't look good, but was not my idea of a good time, either.

[fieroguru]

You putting the starter on the engine side or tranny side? Either way I would watch for potential starter clearance to that front crossmember.

On my F40 with the ford starter, the solenoid is below the top side of my lowered front crossmember, it was moved several inches forward and I only have about 1/4" clearance between the crossmember and the starter.

If you put it on the engine side, you may be able to clock the starter mounting to put the solenoid/starter body above the crossmemeber... but it will still be very tight. Here is a pic of my 4.3 starter using a Z-style kit. The crossmember in this picture is close to stock height but moved about 1" further forward and with the LS based you will lose atleast another 1" of clearance due to the Y-block vs. flanged oil pan. This nissan starter has a decent about of offset in it so you may want to consider using it (and the nissan 120 tooth ring gear).


The manaual transmissions have alittle more flexibility in engine placement front/rear so maybe you could move the engine back to gain additional clearance to the crossmemer... or just modify the crossmember.

[Atilla the Fun]

Again I thank you for the information.

[Grim_Sage]

Progress looks good... Do you think the Trans. will hold the torque load?

It's too bad there isn't a better source for a LSx to 4T65e-HD adapter plate. Lloyde isn't exactly a good source.

[Atilla the Fun]

First, I don't see why you couldn't use a plate like this to adapt the 4T65E-HD to a Chevy V8 or V6/90, just so long as you either space the flexplate or the torque converter by the same distance as the thickness of the adapter plate.
There are existing plates, for $65, that have NO provision for mounting a starter. They are 1/8" thick. With a plate like mine, you probably will have to remove excess material, but it's better than not having enough.
Torque capacity: the F40-MT2 is rated to hold 295 ft-lbs of input torque. It certainly is stronger than the old Getrag 282, and guys have been putting 400+ ft-lbs through those for years without much trouble. The 282 is rated for something like 170 ft-lbs. But if you don't rev it up and dump the clutch, or powershift, it'll hold triple that. troy is putting more than 470 ft-lbs through his F40-MT2, hasn't reported any issue yet, but he drives it gently.
I fully expect the F40-MT2 to live at 600 ft-lbs if you go easy on the shifting and the launches. Feed the torque in smoothly, not violently.
These can be had new for around $400, and the gearing is 3.769/2.040/1.321/0.954/0.755/0.623 with a fdr of 3.546. So with 235/60R15 drag radials, that's 1850 rpm at 65 mph. Not bad. The 282 gives 2180 rpm.
To everyone else, I'll still be producing a nice final version of my plate, 1/4"-thick. I've done all the mocking up necessary to take my patterns to the Bridgeport. I think I'll be selling it for $100 shipped. Seems fair to me.

[fieroguru]

Progress looks good... Do you think the Trans. will hold the torque load?

It's too bad there isn't a better source for a LSx to 4T65e-HD adapter plate. Lloyde isn't exactly a good source.

You should be able to use the Street Dreams SBC adapter plate (it is about the right thickness), just cut the starter mount portion off. The LS(x) engines share the same pattern as the SBC, just one hole is not used. It will bolt up to the LS(x) but you will need to drill 4 clearance holes for the rear engine cover plate..

You will also need a 4T65e-HD tranny with the starter mounted on it (from the LS4) to run any LS(x) engines with the automatic.... I happen to have one of these for sale on ebay right now - from 2007 Impala SS with 18K miles .

[Atilla the Fun]

I can provide posterboard templates of where the 4 holes need to be drilled, if you can't wait for my plate to hit the market.

[Atilla the Fun]

I'm getting close. Here's a pic of an 18" x 36" slab of 1/4"-thick mild steel, and I used a red Sharpie to trace my latest rough pattern. I expected to fit it twice, but I was able to fit it 3 times, thus reducing my material cost by about 30%.
This is the shape I'll sell to people who want to figure out their own starter mounting, and are willing to cut away whatever they end up not needing. I'm thinking of pricing it at $65 plus shipping. I believe that's what I paid for the Speedway plate that Fieroguru made me aware of, but mine is twice as thick, adds 4 holes to clear LSx rear covers, and includes material for starter mounting.

[Atilla the Fun]

[Atilla the Fun]

update:

[Atilla the Fun]

Next week I'll post some pics of the CNC mill I'm using to turn these rough cut outlines into things of beauty. I've already made my first sale, and I'm eager to get a video testimonial from the guy.
Also, that pink shape is an engine mount adapter bracket I used for putting a 350 in my 'stang, farther rearward than before. Plus it's a serious reduction of waste. The next time around, I'll be making engine mount adapter brackets for my LQ4 Trans Am, instead of buying the Trans-Dapt 4572s. I think that's the right number. Anyway, these alone pay for the plate. Getting the V8 Fiero adapters is just a bonus.

[Atilla the Fun]

With my 1/8" hole pattern plate, my 1/8" shape pattern plate, and my 1/4" blank cut from the 18x36" plate, I was ready to get milling.

[Atilla the Fun]

Sorry no recent pics. Issues with the camera. It's either go back to using a disposable, then getting the pics developed onto a CD at Wal-Mart, or hope someone gives me a new digital camera for Christmas.