Looks like I get to replace the starter now! :(

[Starlite528]

The never ending saga of bull crap continues. Since my mom had the fuel pump replaced last year when I was in Afghanistan, it takes forever to start after the car has been sitting for some hours. Now, the starter only engages the flywheel for a second or two then it spins freely. I got a new one and I'll install it tomorrow probably.

It still runs like shit since I replaced the vacuum lines and injectors. It lacks power and backfires when I accelerate from a stop, especially when the engine is cold. After it runs for a while it gets better but never as good as before the new stuff went in. I get code 33 and 44 (MAP and lean). I did replace the MAP sensor. I can't find the rubber T-connector for the line that goes between the MAP and fuel pressure regulator at any stores, I wonder a dealer will have one?

And I'm going to eventually have to pay a shop to do the fuel pump for me, unless you guys think there's enough room under the car to get the tank out with only wheel ramps, a jack, and jack stands.

FML!

[Shaun41178(2)]

is your map sensor even getting a vacuum signal?

[Starlite528]

It should be, last time I checked the engine ran even worse when I unplugged the vacuum line right there. I'll check again. What I haven't checked is the rubber connector between the vacuum line and the fuel pressure regulator which is at the other end from the MAP, because you know, it's under the plenum and impossible to reach.

[Starlite528]

Yeah it stalls right out if I pop the vacuum line.

[Shaun41178(2)]

you might need to pull the vacuum line that feeds the map sensor to the FPR. It could have cracked. When throwing a map code it can only be but a couple of things.

MAP is bad, or its receiving a false signal.

[Starlite528]

I replaced all the vacuum lines when I replaced the injectors. I replaced them with the steel bent kit from thefierostore. I need that rubber T connector though because there *IS* a hole in it. I covered the hole with some orange RTV. the rpms don't change when I spray carb cleaner around the engine (it's kind of hard to tell anyways since the rpms are going up and down constantly)

Edit: Also, there was no change between how it runs with the old MAP sensor and the new one.

I just got through replacing the starter maybe half an hour ago. The new unit sure spins a lot faster than the old one! I wonder how it will affect starting with the current fuel pump. I sprayed the carb cleaner into the intake plenum before I started it today after replacing the starter and it started instantly.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Checked fuel pressure?

[Starlite528]

I don't have a gauge. I wonder how much Autozone charges for that...

Edit: $45. Of course, the engine decides to run perfectly from the moment I get in and go to the store and come back. wtf.

[Shaun41178(2)]

don't shut it off.

[Starlite528]

Fuel pressure vibrates between 20 and 30 at idle. it holds steady at 22 when I hold it revved up some.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5HWyaLnlO2c

[Shaun41178(2)]

I am guessing you don't have an adjustable FPR. You might want to look at replacing your filter. It could be clogged. Its cheap and easier than dropping the tank.

The reason its backfiring is because its not getting enough fuel.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Fuel pressure vibrates between 20 and 30 at idle. it holds steady at 22 when I hold it revved up some.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5HWyaLnlO2c

If you key on without starting the engine, the pump should prime and you should see ~43 psi.

[Starlite528]

I get nothing for PSI unless I crank for several seconds (or manually the fuel pump after the 2 second cutoff)

How high do I have to get the car before I can get the tank out?

[The Dark Side of Will]

Your fuel system should stay pressurized for quite a while (half an hour) after you prime it. If the gauge is back to zero by the time you get from the key to the engine bay, you have a *SERIOUS* leak someplace. Obviously, if you can't find a leak to the outside, then it's an internal leak, either through a stuck injector or a hole in the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm.

[Starlite528]

http://www.car-stuff.com/carparts/ponti ... s+Page%3A1

I'm liking what I'm seeing here. I can definitely hear noise from the pump when I'm driving.

[The Dark Side of Will]

I don't see how that can possibly be genuine at that price.

[Starlite528]

I don't see how that can possibly be genuine at that price.

No? Seems like a pretty average price for that pump on different sites. economy of scale?

[Emc209i]

I don't see how that can possibly be genuine at that price.

economy of scale?

More along the lines of "whole sale of recall product". Try it out, what could it hurt, I'm sure it will carry a warranty.

[Starlite528]

I don't see how that can possibly be genuine at that price.

economy of scale?

More along the lines of "whole sale of recall product". Try it out, what could it hurt, I'm sure it will carry a warranty.

It was recalled? got a link for that? Google search for 'bosch fuel pump recall" doesn't return any results that lead me to think they've ever had that kind of trouble. Seems like one forum hates Airtex.

Hope I can get my tank out with ramps. Or maybe I'll just cut a hole in the center console above the tank, lol

[Shaun41178(2)]

when I put in my 255 I prob had the car about 1- 2 feet in the air. Just high enough for me to crawl under, and enough room to slide the tank out when I dropped it down. The tank isn't that heavy when its empty or nearly empty.