WTF? Is this guy trying to rip me off?
Moderator: Series8217
WTF? Is this guy trying to rip me off?
The last engine I had built by an engine shop was a 454. New slugs / bearings / blah blah blah...You know...fresh engine...including having the heads done with some new seats.
grand total....$2500 CDN.
Now I have emailed the most reputable shop i know of in my area and he qoutes me $2000-$2500 just to rebuild the bottom end! WTF! Have prices gone up that much in 3-4 years?!
He says thats the "rough" price cause he doesnt know if my crank needs to be ground. Fuck me! for that price they should friggin gold plate my block!
grand total....$2500 CDN.
Now I have emailed the most reputable shop i know of in my area and he qoutes me $2000-$2500 just to rebuild the bottom end! WTF! Have prices gone up that much in 3-4 years?!
He says thats the "rough" price cause he doesnt know if my crank needs to be ground. Fuck me! for that price they should friggin gold plate my block!
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- Shaun41178(2)
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ok you said the most reputable and then you complain about the high price? Fine take it to some backyard hack like PBJ and let him rebuild it for a 6 pack of beer and a chicken wing. Don't expect it to last long though.
He was giving an estimate too man. It probably depends on just how far yourself wants to go. That might include all forged bottom end you know. Of course he could be pricing ti high so that he wont' under estimate and then make you really pissed off.
Lets put it this way. The machine work for just the bottom end will prob cost somwheres around $1k or so. Boring, honing, checking deck, resurfacing if need be, specing everything. Its a lot of labor man. Also if he assembles it that will cost prob about 3-500 as well.
You want the motor to stand up to boost right? THen you are prob going to have to pay a bit more to make sure its done right. Its not cheap, but I wouldnt' say its unreasonable eitehr. You are uber mega rich anyways.
He was giving an estimate too man. It probably depends on just how far yourself wants to go. That might include all forged bottom end you know. Of course he could be pricing ti high so that he wont' under estimate and then make you really pissed off.
Lets put it this way. The machine work for just the bottom end will prob cost somwheres around $1k or so. Boring, honing, checking deck, resurfacing if need be, specing everything. Its a lot of labor man. Also if he assembles it that will cost prob about 3-500 as well.
You want the motor to stand up to boost right? THen you are prob going to have to pay a bit more to make sure its done right. Its not cheap, but I wouldnt' say its unreasonable eitehr. You are uber mega rich anyways.
But im saying...to build th 454 with MORE work was 2500
But your probably right...once i show up with the engine in the back of the truck he will give me a better price.
Also the engine isnt getting anything fancy. Just clean up the bores. maybe new pistons and rings if it needs it and the typical bearings and gaskets.
I need this thing done / running / tuned by Jan 15.
But your probably right...once i show up with the engine in the back of the truck he will give me a better price.
Also the engine isnt getting anything fancy. Just clean up the bores. maybe new pistons and rings if it needs it and the typical bearings and gaskets.
I need this thing done / running / tuned by Jan 15.
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hone the block yourself, get a 3 stone hone and a ridge reamer. Then you will always have them. The crank will either be good or bad, just replace the bearings and rings. you can lap the valve seats yourself with lapping compound and a drill. Unless your getting a torque plate hone, your not really gonna get much better at a shop than you would at home. Possibly better at home, because its your motor. I do take my blocks to the machine ship to check the deck and clean them up. when I get them back, I heat them with a propane torch to remove all moisture and then paint (or powdercoat them) if powdercoating you must replace cam shaft bearings after you bake the block. Lead bearings +450 degrees = mess. why spend over a grand on stuff that will take a day and 200 bucks worth of tools.
Also most shops quote high on the phone cause so many "i might do this, how much?" people call all the time.
Also most shops quote high on the phone cause so many "i might do this, how much?" people call all the time.
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- Series8217
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Crank job here is $140 out the door including bearings (rods and mains).
I wouldn't do the honing yourself. You can't bore it yourself and you're just going to end up with more than ideal piston clearance without going slightly overbore and then honing out to final bore dimensions with a real honing machine.
If you don't want to buy new pistons and rings just leave the pistons and rings alone. Do the shaft bearings, crank kit, timing chain, timing belt, and call it done. You'll probably want to remove the heads so you can get a good look at the bores. Make sure you dont have water damage or anything. You can also turn the motor over until the piston skirts are exposed in the crankcase to see if there is any scuffing on the skirts. Then you'll know if the motor has ever overheated, meaning the heads could be compromised.
Whatever you do, you can save a lot of money (and grief, if the shop might lose your parts) by giving the machine shop the parts fully dissassembled. No freeze plugs or anything in the block. They don't like having to do tedious stuff like that when they could be doing heads and whatnot for way more $$$.
I wouldn't do the honing yourself. You can't bore it yourself and you're just going to end up with more than ideal piston clearance without going slightly overbore and then honing out to final bore dimensions with a real honing machine.
If you don't want to buy new pistons and rings just leave the pistons and rings alone. Do the shaft bearings, crank kit, timing chain, timing belt, and call it done. You'll probably want to remove the heads so you can get a good look at the bores. Make sure you dont have water damage or anything. You can also turn the motor over until the piston skirts are exposed in the crankcase to see if there is any scuffing on the skirts. Then you'll know if the motor has ever overheated, meaning the heads could be compromised.
Whatever you do, you can save a lot of money (and grief, if the shop might lose your parts) by giving the machine shop the parts fully dissassembled. No freeze plugs or anything in the block. They don't like having to do tedious stuff like that when they could be doing heads and whatnot for way more $$$.
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- Peer Mediator
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well...
I have a place that is rebuilding the entire engine. Machine everything. New rings/pistons/ blah blah blah for $2500cdn.
Atleast I can justify the price for a good engine.
Shaun, how fast can you port a set of 96 dohc heads?
I have a place that is rebuilding the entire engine. Machine everything. New rings/pistons/ blah blah blah for $2500cdn.
Atleast I can justify the price for a good engine.
Shaun, how fast can you port a set of 96 dohc heads?
Resident Import Elitist
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1991 Skyline GTR
(OO\ SKYLINE /OO)
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1991 Skyline GTR
(OO\ SKYLINE /OO)