Need input on my cylinder compression
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I didn't get a valve job cause I didn't have the cash.
If there is a difference between wet and dry comp test does that mean it is a ring more so than the valves? Do all cylinders show higher when it is tested wet vs dry, no matter the motor?
If there is a difference between wet and dry comp test does that mean it is a ring more so than the valves? Do all cylinders show higher when it is tested wet vs dry, no matter the motor?
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So what would you say in my case?
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If your valves are leaking and you don't have the money to do a valve job, get some lapping compound. You can at least get the valves to seal better if you lap them. All you do is put some of the lapping compound on the edge of the valve, where it would contact the seat, and you gently pull it up against the seat and spin it around. This will make it wear into the seat for a better seal. You should be able to visually verify this. Clean off the compound when you are done lapping and it's ready to use. Of course to do this you need the heads off and the valve springs removed.
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Thanks for the lapping compound idea.
Shaun- There's a difference between having $ and not wanting to spend it and just not having it. At the time I was putting my heads together I had no extra $.
Shaun- There's a difference between having $ and not wanting to spend it and just not having it. At the time I was putting my heads together I had no extra $.
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I would have at least lapped the valves... When you take it apart it'll be clear REALLY quickly if you've got a bad valve seat... If nothing else. :salute:
At least it'll run and drive... It's not using oil right now, right? It'll hit your fuel economy and power output...
But I wouldn't throw boost at it. You'll go from "leaking seat" to "burnt valve" in no time.
I would have at least lapped the valves... When you take it apart it'll be clear REALLY quickly if you've got a bad valve seat... If nothing else. :salute:
At least it'll run and drive... It's not using oil right now, right? It'll hit your fuel economy and power output...
But I wouldn't throw boost at it. You'll go from "leaking seat" to "burnt valve" in no time.
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- Shaun41178(2)
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If you had no extra money to do them right, then I don't even know why you made an attempt. The heads are so important in the reliability of the motor and power production. If your heads are shitty, your engine wont' run right and won't make any power. They are critical parts!!!! Why cheap out there? Makes no sense.goatnipples2002 wrote: Shaun- There's a difference between having $ and not wanting to spend it and just not having it. At the time I was putting my heads together I had no extra $.
So do you have the money now? From the sound of your posts you still don't, yet you are still going to try and hack it togethor and pray it works. Then of course you will be the first one to say its a peice of shit for not running right or make the power you were hoping for.
Wait another month or two and save your money and do it right. Or get a second job or something.
The guy was running nitrous on this engine. Its my guess, the valves are already toast in the low numbered cylinders. NO amount of lapping is going to fix that. Why? Because he needs brand new valves AND a valve job.
But hey good luck to ya. What do I know?
Nitrous?
Well, that pretty much guarantees that you're going to find a valve with a melty-looking notch cut out of it.
When the valves leak, you have VERY hot burning fuel dragging a torch across the sealing surface...
It's a bad scene, man...
On the other hand, since it's already farked, just drive it easy for the next month while you save up for a proper head job.
Well, that pretty much guarantees that you're going to find a valve with a melty-looking notch cut out of it.
When the valves leak, you have VERY hot burning fuel dragging a torch across the sealing surface...
It's a bad scene, man...
On the other hand, since it's already farked, just drive it easy for the next month while you save up for a proper head job.
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I have extra valves laying around so I am not worried if the valves are bad. I am using oil now. It smokes a little. I will be doing a swap in oct./nov. when I get school loans, so I only need it to last until then.
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My interest rate is less than 5% and I owe like 20K as is. My fiero will be what I want....how do I do it...I'm in debt up to my eyeballs.
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If you cooked a valve, you will also have cooked the seat.
Plain depressing fact of the matter is that you need to have the head machined and the valve-seats ground--if you're lucky.
If it's BAD, you'll need to have the old seat drilled out and a new seat pressed in ($!), or else use a different head.
DO NOT go into debt for this. Take it from someone who's been there.
Plain depressing fact of the matter is that you need to have the head machined and the valve-seats ground--if you're lucky.
If it's BAD, you'll need to have the old seat drilled out and a new seat pressed in ($!), or else use a different head.
DO NOT go into debt for this. Take it from someone who's been there.
"Oh, this is too good. She thinks you're a servant... Cause you're black! This is greatest moment in my miserable life... Sooo-ey! I LOVE RACISM!"
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First rule I made when I bought my first Fiero is that I will never buy anything that I don't have the cash on hand to buy. Getting into debt over a car, especially a Fiero is a costly thing to do. you will NEVER EVER get anything in return for what you put into it.Shaun41178(2) wrote:Going into debt over a fiero. I think thts funny.
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For the cost of rebuilding your heads or doing any work inside your current engine, you could probably buy another longblock from a yard.
http://www.car-parts.com
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