more DOHC issues

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Fri Jun 01, 2007 11:06 pm

Dude, the 3/8" line is the feed line. Hook the 3/8" line coming from the tank to the 3/8" line on the fuel rail. Then it will be correct again.

slow'n'steady · Post by **slow'n'steady** » Fri Jun 01, 2007 11:12 pm

OK.

For clarification that would mean i am hooking the return line up to the fuel pressure regulator and the feed line up to the other side... Is that how it i suppose to be? I mean forgetting about the actual size because that could have gotten switched or something by the P.O. (if its possible). It just seems to make more sense that the feed line would be connected the the FPR...

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Sat Jun 02, 2007 4:12 am

slow'n'steady wrote:OK.

For clarification that would mean i am hooking the return line up to the fuel pressure regulator and the feed line up to the other side... [.

No thats not right at all. The line coming from the fuel pressure regulator is the return line. If you hook it up like I said, you will have the return line hooked up to the return line and the feed line to the feed line. The fuel pressure regulator just bleeds off excess pressure from the rail.

The Dark Side of Will · Sat Jun 02, 2007 11:31 am

slow'n'steady wrote:I was told that the fuel pressure regulator is the side you wanna connect the 3/8" feed line to,

Never talk to whoever told you this again, ever.

The fuel pump pressurizes the feed line. The regulator controls the volume of return flow to maintain manifold referenced pressure in the fuel rail.

The 3/8" line is the feed and goes to the rail. The 5/16" line is the return and goes to the regulator. The regulator also needs a vacuum line connecting it to manifold pressure.

slow'n'steady · Post by **slow'n'steady** » Sat Jun 02, 2007 1:13 pm

The Dark Side of Will wrote:
slow'n'steady wrote:I was told that the fuel pressure regulator is the side you wanna connect the 3/8" feed line to,
Never talk to whoever told you this again, ever.

The fuel pump pressurizes the feed line. The regulator controls the volume of return flow to maintain manifold referenced pressure in the fuel rail.

The 3/8" line is the feed and goes to the rail. The 5/16" line is the return and goes to the regulator. The regulator also needs a vacuum line connecting it to manifold pressure.

Thanks!
as for the vacuum line going to the FPR, there is a hose which is connecting to one of the small ports on the MAP. Is this correct?

Shaun41178(2) · Post by **Shaun41178(2)** » Sat Jun 02, 2007 1:25 pm

the map and the fpr line is probably correct. Thast how it is on a stock 2.8 too.

If the fuel lines were hooked up backwards the car will not run. This could be your problem the whole time.

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Sat Jun 02, 2007 1:30 pm

The MAP has 3 vacuum lines running to it, 2 on the front, 1 in the back. The one on the front driver's side is for your FPR. The front passenger side is for the AIR system on manual cars, and the transmission on automatics (So block this port off). The line on the back of the MAP goes to the EVAP solenoid.

slow'n'steady · Post by **slow'n'steady** » Sat Jun 02, 2007 1:36 pm

Shaun41178(2) wrote:If the fuel lines were hooked up backwards the car will not run. This could be your problem the whole time.

NO... the fuel lines where correct the entire time until yesterday when the autoparts people told me it was backwards...

had the FPR line hooked up to the wrong port on the MAP. I put it on the right port and.... drum roll... didnt change a damn thing
Still gotta get a fuel pressure tester (hopefuly later today... shouldnt have bought that .45ACP)

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Sat Jun 02, 2007 2:16 pm

Well that's just how it was from the factory, it doesn't really matter so long as it's getting a vacuum source. That's all that MAP sensor is is a vacuum manifold. In fact, the piece that has the lines hook up to it isn't even the MAP sensor, it's merely just the manifold. Then the MAP sensor clicks into it, and uses the vacuum port on top to get its vacuum reference. At any rate, that clearly wasn't your problem.

slow'n'steady · Post by **slow'n'steady** » Sat Jun 02, 2007 2:19 pm

another little stupid thought of mine. How much vacuum pressure runs through it? The hard line that was on the car was busted to hell, so it just has a rubber vacuum line going from the FPR the the vacuum switch. Could that possibly be collapsing?

This is getting dumb... i just need to buy a fuel pressure tester and see if that is the problem before i start tryin to fix it :la:

p8ntman442 · Post by **p8ntman442** » Sat Jun 02, 2007 2:36 pm

[quote="slow'n'steady"

This is getting dumb... i just need to buy a fuel pressure tester and see if that is the problem before i start tryin to fix it :la:[/quote]

Its 5 pages later and you still havent checked fuel pressure? Jesus Christ.

slow'n'steady · Post by **slow'n'steady** » Sat Jun 02, 2007 2:43 pm

It never started as a fuel pressure thing... i am broke, i had to get the $50 for the damn pressure tester...

I am going to buy it RIGHT NOW... gimme about 30 minutes and i should be able to tell you'all the fuel pressure

slow'n'steady · Post by **slow'n'steady** » Sat Jun 02, 2007 4:20 pm

Of course all three auto parts stores within 3 miles where out so i had to run accross town...

fuel pressure is 41psi-42psi with the key on and engine off (suppose to be like 41-47 IIRC) When cranking the engine it goes up, couldnt see it very well but looked to be just below 50psi

slow'n'steady · Post by **slow'n'steady** » Sat Jun 02, 2007 5:09 pm

what next?

p8ntman442 · Post by **p8ntman442** » Sat Jun 02, 2007 7:35 pm

return the fuel pressure tester and tell them you want your money back. :la:

slow'n'steady · Post by **slow'n'steady** » Sun Jun 03, 2007 2:59 am

that would be nice...
It came in one of those packages you have to use a chainsaw to get into.

Any other ideas on the car, or should i yank the engine and "start over"

slow'n'steady · Post by **slow'n'steady** » Sun Jun 03, 2007 9:26 pm

Just thought of another thing. Rather than the coils being mounted on the block like they are supposed to be factory, i mounted them to where the battery used to sit. I do have a ground going to the engine bay metal, but it is on the opposite side of the car. Any possibilty a "not so great" ground would have anything to do with it? If so what would be the best way to make 100% sure the coils and such have an awesome ground?

p8ntman442 · Post by **p8ntman442** » Sun Jun 03, 2007 10:49 pm

yes, not grounding the coils would cause you to not run. Run a 12 awg wire to the frame.

The Dark Side of Will · Mon Jun 04, 2007 8:47 am

On the Northstar, the coil pack (with 4 coils) has a VERY HEAVY (like 8 ga) wire grounding it directly to the block/head.

The coil pack needs a good ground because the sum of the primary AND secondary currents has to go through it.

Mach10 · Post by **Mach10** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 9:33 am

Not to mention that god knows what a ground loop will do to your reference pulse...

Actually, I know EXACTLY what a ground loop will do to a reference pulse.

It's called "Spark Scatter" and it makes a car run like shit or not at all. :salute:

(ask me how I know)