Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 1:56 pm
i've thought of using 1/4" drive universal joints but you'd have to make sure they didn't have any slop in the joint.
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Enough force to quickly accelerate/decelerate my ~20# 1:6 scale "Monster Buggy" to ~40 MPH. The brake on that one is inboard and only on the rears... http://www.traxxas.com/products/nitro/m ... onster.htm This is also not the largest R/C car available so if you're worried about strength go with parts from a 1:4 scale oval-racer. No frame should be needed, attach directly to the throttle shafts.Mach10 wrote:How much force can those things take? The return spring on the throttle isn't monstrous, but it isn't exactly a slouch, either...
If it's strong enough, it'd probably work well, if you can build a frame for it to stop it from flexing... :thumbleft:
Yes, but don't you want to be able to fine-tune where they begin to open relative to one another? From my understanding of the rig you don't want the first opening to 5 degrees before the second starts to move...The Dark Side of Will wrote:Each throttle has an independent idle adjustment screw.
Isn't that what I suggested?The Dark Side of Will wrote:That's why you build an adjustment into the transfer mechanism.
ever notice that the best setups also look good?goatnipples2002 wrote:I don't give two shits about some damn aesthetics this is my rat rod that I have fun in. I'm into racing not car shows......
I don't know..... Mike Smiths DOHC upper intake look's like a Shit but it works vary well.Pyrthian wrote:ever notice that the best setups also look good?
and kohburns looked sweet, but blew apart (not really a malfunction of the intake). There will always be exceptions to the rules, but primarily, if someone takes the time and care to make something look halfway decent, it will mean he took that same care in the rest of the process.Forever-Fiero wrote:I don't know..... Mike Smiths DOHC upper intake look's like a Shit but it works vary well.Pyrthian wrote:ever notice that the best setups also look good?