Totally unoriginal LQ1 build thread
Moderators: The Dark Side of Will, Series8217
- Shaun41178(2)
- Posts: 8464
- Joined: Fri Nov 19, 2004 7:12 pm
- Location: Ben Phelps is an alleged scammer
Re: Totally unoriginal LQ1 build thread
You could try pming mrsleeve91 on here as I think he has built some dohc headers and might know of a source for ss flanges
Re: Totally unoriginal LQ1 build thread
My thoughts exactly.. I PM'd him a week or two ago asking if he could either make a set for me, provide pics, or even provide the source of the header materials with no luck..Shaun41178(2) wrote:You could try pming mrsleeve91 on here as I think he has built some dohc headers and might know of a source for ss flanges
Re: Totally unoriginal LQ1 build thread
I have laser cut flanges but they aren't SS. I can't remember where mine are from, but they were cheap and I'm sure they could be cut from SS.
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Re: Totally unoriginal LQ1 build thread
I can plasma some flanges out, but they wont be very pretty looking, and would need some clean up work with a stone.
car.
Re: Totally unoriginal LQ1 build thread
For which heads are the made? 91-95 or 96-97 I have the 96-97 heads.Aaron wrote:I have laser cut flanges but they aren't SS. I can't remember where mine are from, but they were cheap and I'm sure they could be cut from SS.
Re: Totally unoriginal LQ1 build thread
Wow thanks for the offer. I have some exhaust manifold gaskets to send you for a template or I can make up and send you a CAD file.FieroWanaBe1 wrote:I can plasma some flanges out, but they wont be very pretty looking, and would need some clean up work with a stone.
I'm assuming machine cut like the following:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZUrbsmjId4
Can you cut them from 3/8" or even 1/2" 304 SS?
How precise can they be cut? I'll be running 1 5/8" 16 gauge SS primaries swaged into the necessary oval shape so I'll need them cut about 1.5mm larger than the port size so the tubing can be properly inset into the flanges.
Re: Totally unoriginal LQ1 build thread
Well mine are the early heads, but if the company can do those they can do the late ones. Like I said I don't remember where I got them, but they're perfect. Love the laser cutting it's so smooth.draven wrote:For which heads are the made? 91-95 or 96-97 I have the 96-97 heads.Aaron wrote:I have laser cut flanges but they aren't SS. I can't remember where mine are from, but they were cheap and I'm sure they could be cut from SS.
Re: Totally unoriginal LQ1 build thread
Thanks for the pics and the heads up, however, let me know if you can recall who created the flanges.
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Re: Totally unoriginal LQ1 build thread
My machine is similar in operation, but a lot less industrial.
If you can send me a model of what you want the final product to be, I can make my CAM file to suit, that's the safest route I think.
1/2" flanges are going to have a nasty kerf since my plasma is only rated for 5/8" steel. Stainless is a little different since it doesn't burn as readily in oxygen. My feed rate will be very slow, and could really warp the parts. 3/8 is much safer for me to cut and keep a respectable tolerance.
If they do warp some, I can run them on my mill to straighten them out some, but the flanges are pretty small and simple and shouldn't warp much.
If you can send me a model of what you want the final product to be, I can make my CAM file to suit, that's the safest route I think.
1/2" flanges are going to have a nasty kerf since my plasma is only rated for 5/8" steel. Stainless is a little different since it doesn't burn as readily in oxygen. My feed rate will be very slow, and could really warp the parts. 3/8 is much safer for me to cut and keep a respectable tolerance.
If they do warp some, I can run them on my mill to straighten them out some, but the flanges are pretty small and simple and shouldn't warp much.
car.
Re: Totally unoriginal LQ1 build thread
many many many thanks...FieroWanaBe1 wrote:My machine is similar in operation, but a lot less industrial.
If you can send me a model of what you want the final product to be, I can make my CAM file to suit, that's the safest route I think.
1/2" flanges are going to have a nasty kerf since my plasma is only rated for 5/8" steel. Stainless is a little different since it doesn't burn as readily in oxygen. My feed rate will be very slow, and could really warp the parts. 3/8 is much safer for me to cut and keep a respectable tolerance.
If they do warp some, I can run them on my mill to straighten them out some, but the flanges are pretty small and simple and shouldn't warp much.
Would you rather me send you a CAD file or gaskets or both?
PM any compensation amounts for labor and materials you may need.
Re: Totally unoriginal LQ1 build thread
Don't mean to butt in on someone's negotiations but I have been trying to find a set of header flanges for an 97 Lq1 - I would certainly be interested in buying a set if you are considering making a couple.
Thanks
Thanks
Re: Totally unoriginal LQ1 build thread
no problem bro, whatever we can do to make the deal sweeter for FieroWannabe1...mugsman wrote:Don't mean to butt in on someone's negotiations but I have been trying to find a set of header flanges for an 97 Lq1 - I would certainly be interested in buying a set if you are considering making a couple.
Thanks
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Re: Totally unoriginal LQ1 build thread
Ive got gaskets here for my 96 engine.
Ill work on a model and getting some samples cut, as well as pricing material. Ill try to make a little run of parts.
Ill work on a model and getting some samples cut, as well as pricing material. Ill try to make a little run of parts.
car.
Re: Totally unoriginal LQ1 build thread
Cool, I was just contacted out in CA that can do them laser cut 3/8" SS304 for about $40 a flange. If your material cost + your time is close to that or more let me know and I'll go with the laser cut flanges.FieroWanaBe1 wrote:Ive got gaskets here for my 96 engine.
Ill work on a model and getting some samples cut, as well as pricing material. Ill try to make a little run of parts.
Re: Totally unoriginal LQ1 build thread
I'm not sure how his will be, but I had a set of flanges cut for my old Lumina from a computer run plasma cutter, and I wasn't very happy with them. One had warped during the cutting, and both needed extensive cleanup before being ready to use. I was much happier with the laser flanges, they were bolt on ready.
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Re: Totally unoriginal LQ1 build thread
Ff $40 gets you laser and material, for a whole bank (not just one cylinder like the gaskets are) you would be much happier with the quality of cut from a laser. Material alone is almost 3/4 of that cost for me since I don't keep anything on hand, I do not do production on any level, its always piece parts as needed for various projects.
car.
Re: Totally unoriginal LQ1 build thread
alright, exhaust manifolds and rubbings off to the laser cutter and I stripped and got rid of the 86 frame. I purchased the red 88GT earlier in this thread. Pics to come.. she wasn't a trailer queen at all.. all original and I mean "all" original which is good but the car was so gingerly driven that any just spirited driving while shaking the car down ahs led to a few components failing. dealing with a failing master cylinder and creaking calipers when warm.
Going to spend some time adapting the C5 brakes to the 88 calipers. The first thing to overcome is the adaptation of the drum ebrake setup onto the 88 rear knuckles.. One of the goals I'm after is to attach the ebrake drum to the knuckle without utilizing the hub bolts thereby moving the hub away from the knuckle as I plan on installing achieva bearings on the rear. The achieva bearings already require a 1/4" spacer on the axle and any ebrake drum bracket that utilizes the hub/bearing bolts will move it further from the axle spline and reduce the engagement to the splines that much more.
The solution I'm contemplating is building a 3/16" to 1/4" bracket that clears the hub / bearing bolts and utilizes the dust shield bolts for attachment. I think its safe to say that the stock bolts and holes for the dust shield would be insufficient for the sheer force encountered by an ebrake engagement at speed. Nor do I think simply changing to a grade 8 / 10.9 bolt would be enough either. There's not much room widen the holes due their proximity to the edge of the casting but it may be possible to drill larger holes just inset of the dust shield tap holes but utilizing the area where the holes exist. However how do I drill and tap a new hole into the casting without the bit walking into the original hole. Screw a bolt in and grind off the head and use that as just base material to drill into for the new holes?
Also, any ideas what sheer calculations would I need to deduce the size of the bolts needed?
Going to spend some time adapting the C5 brakes to the 88 calipers. The first thing to overcome is the adaptation of the drum ebrake setup onto the 88 rear knuckles.. One of the goals I'm after is to attach the ebrake drum to the knuckle without utilizing the hub bolts thereby moving the hub away from the knuckle as I plan on installing achieva bearings on the rear. The achieva bearings already require a 1/4" spacer on the axle and any ebrake drum bracket that utilizes the hub/bearing bolts will move it further from the axle spline and reduce the engagement to the splines that much more.
The solution I'm contemplating is building a 3/16" to 1/4" bracket that clears the hub / bearing bolts and utilizes the dust shield bolts for attachment. I think its safe to say that the stock bolts and holes for the dust shield would be insufficient for the sheer force encountered by an ebrake engagement at speed. Nor do I think simply changing to a grade 8 / 10.9 bolt would be enough either. There's not much room widen the holes due their proximity to the edge of the casting but it may be possible to drill larger holes just inset of the dust shield tap holes but utilizing the area where the holes exist. However how do I drill and tap a new hole into the casting without the bit walking into the original hole. Screw a bolt in and grind off the head and use that as just base material to drill into for the new holes?
Also, any ideas what sheer calculations would I need to deduce the size of the bolts needed?
- Series8217
- 1988 Fiero Track Car
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Re: Totally unoriginal LQ1 build thread
I don't think you need to run an axle spacer with the Achieva bearings if you mill the face of the knuckle down. IIRC you can take a few mm off the knuckle face to make it work. It may be enough to make your internal ebrake bracket work with the same spline engagement you had planned for. The ebrake bracket doesn't need to be very thick at all.. I bet even a few mm is fine.
Re: Totally unoriginal LQ1 build thread
Good idea, I might go that way.. any idea as to the shear strength calculations for bolt size to mount the bracket to the dust shield hole locations?Series8217 wrote:I don't think you need to run an axle spacer with the Achieva bearings if you mill the face of the knuckle down. IIRC you can take a few mm off the knuckle face to make it work. It may be enough to make your internal ebrake bracket work with the same spline engagement you had planned for. The ebrake bracket doesn't need to be very thick at all.. I bet even a few mm is fine.
Re: Totally unoriginal LQ1 build thread
Wrong thread.