Look what followed me home:

jelly2m81 · Post by **jelly2m81** » Mon Mar 17, 2008 2:56 am

No big issue to me, everybody has a preferred way, just though I'd suggest what I've found to be an easier and quicker way.

Either method only requires removing 3 nuts, removing the struts with the cradles requires unbolting the caliper and the flex hose from the strut also. I just prefer using the method with the least amount of struggle.
That and I'm a stickler for a proper alignment, I fooking hate driving a Fiero that the alignment isn't spot on. Also when I work at customers cars if I can save them the 70-80 bux on an alignment that shouldn't be needed, great!

I guess you guys might be limited to overhead space, I usually get the car high enough that I can pull the assembly either out the back, or to either side.

Chris-Nelson · Post by **Chris-Nelson** » Mon Mar 17, 2008 11:11 am

I don't get what you're saying... alignment?

I have done this to a Fiero at least a dozen times and I've never experienced any mis-alignment issues.

I've done it to 3 different Fieros and as long as you do not unbolt the struts from the knuckles would you ever have to get it realigned. It is specifically why I do it this way at all.

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Mon Mar 17, 2008 5:33 pm

jelly2m8 wrote: I guess you guys might be limited to overhead space, I usually get the car high enough that I can pull the assembly either out the back, or to either side.

I lift the car up with the hoist, so I can't pull the motor out the back (the hoist is in the way).
What do you do about the axles though?

jelly2m81 · Post by **jelly2m81** » Mon Mar 17, 2008 7:38 pm

Series8217 wrote: IWhat do you do about the axles though?

Remove the axle nuts, once the balljoint and tierod is let go, just pull the strut out a lil and slide the axle out.

Like I said before, if your ways works for you thats great.

Chris, the strut mount is not a precision fit in the strut tower, the whole strut assembly has some~ 1/8- 3/16" of movement within those 3 strut mounting holes. Doesn't sound like much but it does make significant changes to the alignment settings at the spindle.
I'm just fussy, I want the alignment to be as best as it can be. I let customers and Fiero acquaintces drive my GT's all the time if they ask. Many of them comment on how well they drive and handle compared to theirs. There's nothing special about my Fiero's, they are all pretty much stock, but one thing I can ensure, the alignment is kept spot on in them.
My Fiero's get the alignment checked / adjusted at least once a season no matter how little mileage gets put on them. My ttop only had 2300 kilometers put on it between may 06 and may 07, but I still had the alignment checked last summer.

Chris-Nelson · Post by **Chris-Nelson** » Mon Mar 17, 2008 10:25 pm

hmmm, I guess I never thought that would make any difference at all. haha
I guess I have never driven mine enough times between projects the last 2 years to really notice how good or bad the alignment is after it's been torn apart. It usually just gets taken apart again! Hopefully this summer is a different story.

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Tue Mar 18, 2008 3:39 am

jelly2m8 wrote:
Series8217 wrote: IWhat do you do about the axles though?
Remove the axle nuts, once the balljoint and tierod is let go, just pull the strut out a lil and slide the axle out.

Like I said before, if your ways works for you thats great.

Your way sounds better; I hate having to take the calipers off and stuff.. though I guess I'd still have to take the damn ebrake cable off so it doesn't really help with that.
I don't have any way to pull the motor out the back though, since the hoist is holding up the car.
Might do it this way when I have it on a lift.

Chris-Nelson · Post by **Chris-Nelson** » Sun Mar 23, 2008 12:36 am

I decided to not install the adjustable coil overs. I am going to stick to my lowering springs until I redo the entire suspension. I just want to get the car put back together so in a week or so I can drive it.

Installed the poly cradle bushings tonight and that made a huge mess burning out the old ones...

Also, I got the timing cover back on with the new water pump and a new poly-bushing reinforced steel motor mount.

Chris-Nelson · Post by **Chris-Nelson** » Fri Mar 28, 2008 1:13 am

Poly Cradle bushings are in, timing cover and water pump are assembled, cradle is bolted back in to the car and the new brake calipers are installed and bled.

I got the wheels put back on tonight and put it back on the ground for the first time in a while.

I cleaned up the block to get ready for the heads. Also got the new Crane lifters lubed up and installed and the new ARP head studs. All ready for the ported Falconer Racing heads.

There is not much else that I can do to it until I get the heads finished up next week.

Chris-Nelson · Post by **Chris-Nelson** » Fri Mar 28, 2008 1:16 am

I sent my injectors in to get cleaned and flow tested yesterday. After talking it over with Ryan (Sinister Performance) he convinced me that my Ford 42 lb/hr injectors were way too big for me so I got a set of 24 lb/hr injectors. I'll probably be selling the 42's pretty soon. I just don't see me needing them any time soon I guess. Mistake on my part I guess.

I'll be using the upper intake from West Coast Fiero:

It uses a 3.4L DOHC v6 throttle body and they advertise 64% air flow gain over the stock unit. This combined with ported/polished lower and middle intake manifolds should flow more than enough for my engine. I'm no longer sure that I'll be making another dual TB intake because I got such a good deal on this new intake.

Xanth · Post by **Xanth** » Fri Mar 28, 2008 1:50 am

The "legs" are stock Fiero crap though aren't they?

That the one the guy on Old Europe was selling for only $120 or something?

Chris-Nelson · Post by **Chris-Nelson** » Fri Mar 28, 2008 9:02 am

Yes and Yes.
I think with a really good port job the stock fiero runners will do OK. I believe the only real restriction that hurts is the neck and little throttle body. We'll see.

Shaun41178(2) · Post by **Shaun41178(2)** » Fri Mar 28, 2008 11:28 am

A darrel morese ported neck and tb produces more power and thats witha measly 57mm tb.

This will make more power no doubt about it. How much is yet to be seen.

Would be nice to havef actual before and after dyno numbers, but hey, I know its most likely not in the cards.

Swapping intakes on a dyno is no fun, ask how I know.

Xanth · Post by **Xanth** » Fri Mar 28, 2008 11:56 am

Any idea if they do any work on the intake when its cut open or if they just weld that tube right on? Looks like that would be a good time to port out the inside of those legs.

That has to be shit-easy to make.

Chris-Nelson · Post by **Chris-Nelson** » Fri Mar 28, 2008 2:15 pm

Xanth wrote:Any idea if they do any work on the intake when its cut open or if they just weld that tube right on? Looks like that would be a good time to port out the inside of those legs.

That has to be shit-easy to make.

I tried contacting WCF about it and haven't heard back from them yet. I'd like to know the answer to your question also. But I'll find out when it shows up and if it is not ported/polished you bet your ass it will be before it goes on the car.

Also, my machinist said that it would probably cost less than $100 to make something like that.

Stock Fiero upper manifold, 3" aluminum tubing, and a flange for any TB you want. But, I'm gonna try this one out before I go and make anything myself.

Shaun - I was thinking of doing a before and after dyno result, because I think it would only take about 20 minutes to swap out the intake/TB on the dyno but I'd run into 2 specific problems:
1. The new intake uses a 3.4DOHC throttle body and has different IAC and TPS wiring connectors that need to be installed on the factory Fiero harness.

2. I'll be using a custom chip burnt specifically for how much air the new intake will be capable of flowing and it might not work so hot with the smaller OEM intake.

So, I"ll probably sell my ported DM TB and UIM to help cover the costs of this new one I got.

Chris-Nelson · Post by **Chris-Nelson** » Thu Apr 03, 2008 6:40 pm

Just got word from Ryan Gick today that my custom-burnt chip is finished and on the way.

Also, today I got my CSI fuel port fitting and plug. I got an AN fitting to replace the factory port that accepts a plug and will be used for my nitrous system later on. Got this from Summit for about $20 for 3 pieces.

And this is what I had done to my lower intake manifold:

I had the CSI port plugged up completely and the whole thing ported.

I should get the new upper intake manifold in about a week and then it can be started.

p8ntman442 · Post by **p8ntman442** » Thu Apr 03, 2008 8:01 pm

now you gotta bead blast and powder coat it.

Blue Shift · Post by **Blue Shift** » Thu Apr 03, 2008 9:48 pm

p8ntman442 wrote:now you gotta bead blast and powder coat it.

Yeah. Beadblasting ftmfw. Unless it's on parts that can retain them, and then relase them into your oil, then its ftl.

Chris-Nelson · Post by **Chris-Nelson** » Thu Apr 03, 2008 11:34 pm

Once I have all 3 intake manifold parts finished I am going to sand blast them, put them through a few cycles in the hot tank parts washer and then get them Imron coated.

I don't know if I want to do clear coating, or black yet... We'll see.

FormulaGT · Post by **FormulaGT** » Sun Apr 06, 2008 5:57 am

Chris-Nelson wrote:... CSI fuel port ...will be used for my nitrous system...

That is a really good idea! Thanks for sharing that little tid bit as I will use that for my fuel tap later also.

Sweet deal :afrocool:

Chris-Nelson · Post by **Chris-Nelson** » Mon Apr 07, 2008 10:48 pm

The custom ecu chip showed up today and I put it in and reassembled my Fiero. Looks nice in there.

Also, I got my new 24 lb/hr fuel injectors. I got a set of 8 for $180. They have been rebuilt completely, then cleaned and flow tested.

S O M E D A Y my heads will be finished and I can put the engine back together... :fart: