Real Fiero Tech

OK, what's the trick to getting 88 inner tie rods off? Special tools to make the job easy? I don't want to remove the rack from the car.

Ideally I'd like to reuse the inner tie rod too. I just need to replace the 88 rack bushing.

There is a special long ass socket that slips over the tie rod so you can crank it off. I believe its actually called an inner tie rod removal tool.

The ball-and-socket end of the inner tie rod has edges bent in where it attaches to the rack. Do I need to somehow straighten these out, or will the twisting force take care of that?

It was recommended to me to grind the edges off, but that they can be removed with just brute force. I haven't done it yet though. Can you get at then without ruining the threads on the rack?

Secure the inner tie rod on one end in a vice so the rack doesn't twist, and crank off the other one with a large pipe wrench. You can probably get the bent edges to straighten out as you loosen it. Try it first. If that doesnt work cover things up (don't want metal particles in the rack) and grind those bent edges off.

Red wrote: Ideally I'd like to reuse the inner tie rod too. I just need to replace the 88 rack bushing.

Did you check yet if its a plastic or a metal one? The metal one you have to knock out from inside the rack; it's pressed in pretty good. It will require you to completely disassemble the rack. It's not fun! Only some of the 88s had the iron bushing..

Red wrote:OK, what's the trick to getting 88 inner tie rods off? Special tools to make the job easy? I don't want to remove the rack from the car.

Ideally I'd like to reuse the inner tie rod too. I just need to replace the 88 rack bushing.

Tough. Lack of proper tooling makes more work.

It's not that hard if you pull the plastic tub out of the front compartment...

I picked up a "Saginaw tie rod tool" and the inner tie rod was a breeze to take off.

Got the plastic bushing removed from the end of the rack and replaced it with Rodney's replacement. Unfortunately, there's still play in the right wheel. Enough that you can feel it when the tire is on. Apparently the rack bushing wasn't my problem.

Any ideas what else could be worn out here? It's not the inner or outer tie rods. The movement is in the rack.

Are you having someone hold the steering wheel?
The column lock has play in it and can't be relied on to give you a good 9-3 shake test.

I had someone hold the column and there's no play in it, even though the 9-3 wheel check reveals some movement. For S&Gs, I tried the left wheel too and found that it has at least as much movement as the right.

On a hunch, I decided to check the mechanism between the bottom of the column and the steering rack (the piece with a couple of U-joints) and found the play to be in there. It's not in one of the U-joints, but rather just above a rubber donut-looking piece. This looks very different than all the other ones I've seen. Most are just metal, but this one has a flat rubber piece in it. I'll have to take a picture of it.

Anyone have a good condition steering rack u-joint piece and the rubber shroud that covers it for sale?

Here's a picture of the steering intermediate shaft. The one on bottom is the one off my Formula. Never seen one with that rubber "absorber" before.



Close up:



Is this an odd ball or only used on certain models?

Man.... its easy to see how GM managed to make the fiero 2700lbs...

Red wrote: On a hunch, I decided to check the mechanism between the bottom of the column and the steering rack (the peice with a couple of U-joints) and found the play to be in there. It's not in one of the U-joints, but rather just above a rubber donut-looking peice. This looks very different than all the other ones I've seen. Most are just metal, but this one has a flat rubber peice in it. I'll have to take a picture of it.

Anyone have a good condition steering rack u-joint peice and the rubber shroud that covers it for sale?

Had this problem with my T-Top, replaced the rack bushing and the rack was nice and tight, but still had free play in the steering. That lower asorber was loose on the steering shaft.

You could try "crimping" that steel retainer around the bushing, I guess a couple good wacks with a small sledge around the perimiter might work, or take it to a machine shop and have them squeeze it in a hydraulic press. At this point you really can't ruin it, the lower section of the shaft is swedged out so that the shaft cannot seperate or turn too far in that sleeve.

I took the route of tack welding the bottom of the shaft to the sleeve, this eliminated all the free play and resulted it tight, precise steering, but it also emitted alot of road feedback to the steering wheel.

I ended up replaceing the shaft with one I got from Kickhill because I got tired of the feedback ( you feel every bump in the road through the steering wheel ). I got the rubber donut one in the bottom of the pic, seems to work just fine.
I don't know what model it came from, I just told Bob I needed an 88 steering shaft and thats the one I got.

On a side note, my T-Top was originally a 4 banger coupe with the encased rubber bushing steering shaft. I would guess the differences is just a built date production change.
Earlier year Fiero's use the encased lower asorber, I guess the rubber donut one is a late 88 model change.