My thoughts on the LS1 V8Archie kit
Moderators: The Dark Side of Will, Series8217
My thoughts on the LS1 V8Archie kit
It looks like I have received all of the parts for my V8Archie LS1 kit. Here is what I think.
The adapter plate/starer assembly, flywheel, and clutch are very nice units, worth the cost if going through this swap. The CNC work is great, looks thick enough to prevent contorting. The only thing I would like different is to have the fasteners provided with the adapter. he other think people might not like is that you have to modify the oil pan to clear the starter. Nothing major, just removing an external bypass (two ports used if an oil cooler is equipped), drilling an internal bypass, and plugging the holes.
The motor mounts and brackets look ok. I'm gonna add in some gussets and bracing to withstand the high amount of torque. The kit should work fine for a stock LS1 though. This is a solid mount setup. I'll be using poly cradle mounts, so the car should shake like a Harley. Couple downsides I see. The plates that bolt to the block aren't predrilled. Makes it real difficult since I don't have any stock motor mounts to use as templates. I'll make due. These mounts require alot of cutting and welding on the subframe. None of the stock mounts are used.
The kit also includes block plates for the water pump mounts on the block, a modified p/s axle, alternator and compressor bracket. The water outlet plates are nice, I'll probably end up tigging in AN fittings though, not too fond of hose clamps. The alternator piece will work good, mounts the alternator off of the back head. The compressor bracket looks kinda flimsy for holding a heavy piece of steel. I don't know if I'm gonna keep the A/C or not anyways. The axle is new, uses a d/s tripod on the p/s. I will use it in the beginning, but after the clutch is broken it, I'll need stronger units.
Everything else I have to piece together or fab up myself. Fuel system, cooling system with remote pump, harness, and exhaust. V8Archie sent some pics of how to modify '97 'vette manifolds to use, but they are going to choke this motor. After I get the motor mounted and actually see the clearances in the car, I should be able to figure somthing else out. We'll see.
Anyhow, this is what I got to work with from V8Archie. Worst part of it was waiting the almost four months for the entire kit to show up. Ebay and Jegs are becoming my friends for this project.
If anyone wants pics of certain pieces, let me know. It'll be after New Years though, Xmas is being spent at Disney. Some pics are at the site in my sig.
The adapter plate/starer assembly, flywheel, and clutch are very nice units, worth the cost if going through this swap. The CNC work is great, looks thick enough to prevent contorting. The only thing I would like different is to have the fasteners provided with the adapter. he other think people might not like is that you have to modify the oil pan to clear the starter. Nothing major, just removing an external bypass (two ports used if an oil cooler is equipped), drilling an internal bypass, and plugging the holes.
The motor mounts and brackets look ok. I'm gonna add in some gussets and bracing to withstand the high amount of torque. The kit should work fine for a stock LS1 though. This is a solid mount setup. I'll be using poly cradle mounts, so the car should shake like a Harley. Couple downsides I see. The plates that bolt to the block aren't predrilled. Makes it real difficult since I don't have any stock motor mounts to use as templates. I'll make due. These mounts require alot of cutting and welding on the subframe. None of the stock mounts are used.
The kit also includes block plates for the water pump mounts on the block, a modified p/s axle, alternator and compressor bracket. The water outlet plates are nice, I'll probably end up tigging in AN fittings though, not too fond of hose clamps. The alternator piece will work good, mounts the alternator off of the back head. The compressor bracket looks kinda flimsy for holding a heavy piece of steel. I don't know if I'm gonna keep the A/C or not anyways. The axle is new, uses a d/s tripod on the p/s. I will use it in the beginning, but after the clutch is broken it, I'll need stronger units.
Everything else I have to piece together or fab up myself. Fuel system, cooling system with remote pump, harness, and exhaust. V8Archie sent some pics of how to modify '97 'vette manifolds to use, but they are going to choke this motor. After I get the motor mounted and actually see the clearances in the car, I should be able to figure somthing else out. We'll see.
Anyhow, this is what I got to work with from V8Archie. Worst part of it was waiting the almost four months for the entire kit to show up. Ebay and Jegs are becoming my friends for this project.
If anyone wants pics of certain pieces, let me know. It'll be after New Years though, Xmas is being spent at Disney. Some pics are at the site in my sig.
- Shaun41178(2)
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With all due respect I actually find some humor in this fact because V8Archie, himself, beat up the other kits that moved the trans for years and now he is doing it!S8n wrote:Looks like it's going to be maybe an inch offset at most. These axles have some room for play, thankfully.
Anyway, I have a question about the adapter plate. Is it steel or aluminum? How thick is it?
V8Archie's LT1 kits have moved the engine over for years. His beef, IIRC, was moving a regular SBC over when you didn't have to. Trimming sheet metal was preferable to cutting and welding the cradle.Sinister Fiero wrote:With all due respect I actually find some humor in this fact because V8Archie, himself, beat up the other kits that moved the trans for years and now he is doing it!S8n wrote:Looks like it's going to be maybe an inch offset at most. These axles have some room for play, thankfully.
Anyway, I have a question about the adapter plate. Is it steel or aluminum? How thick is it?
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Really, well that is news to me. I was under the impression that V8Archie has never moved the engine/trans so you wouldn't be stuck with having to get custom axles.Formula69 wrote:
V8Archie's LT1 kits have moved the engine over for years. His beef, IIRC, was moving a regular SBC over when you didn't have to. Trimming sheet metal was preferable to cutting and welding the cradle.
About the trimming sheet metal thing, well I don't agree with you on that when we are talking about cutting sheet metal that is part of the chassis frame rail. I would rather cut the cradle, you can get cradles all day long at the junkyards but once you hack the chassis/spaceframe of the Fiero, you are pretty much stuck with what you've got. And this frame rail I speak of in the engine compartment is made of formed, boxed sheet metal. If you cut it, notch it, or remove it, you are basically cutting a load-bearing member of the Fiero's space frame which the cradle cannot replace.
That LT1 swap I did, even after shifting the engine/trans to the driver's side by quite a bit still required me to notch the right frame rail to clear the engine. It wasn't something I wanted to do but the customer wanted that engine and it had to be done. I did weld on some reinforcement on the outside of the engine compartment where the framerail was, using box tubing but space was limited due to interference with suspension pieces.
The main point I am trying to make here is it is NOT preferred to notch/cut/remove sheet metal when it is in a critical location; besides that it ruins the space frame of the Fiero itself.
- Shaun41178(2)
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The cradle shouldn't have to be notched for the LS1. The reason I think the tranny isn't going to be in the same spot is because of the modified axle. It should allow for more tolerance is placing the assembly. I really didn't have a reason to mark the original location of the tranny, as long as the axles fit.