Real Fiero Tech

Vendor link: http://www.racecareng.com/RCE1/item_det ... o=ALL56410
Manufacturer (part number list for different lengths): http://www.allstarperformance.com/product.htm?prod=861
Finished part list: phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2573&start=60#p137290

Aluminum suspension tubes; come pretapped for 5/8" or 3/4", RH thread on one end and LH on the other. They're available in a variety of lengths and even have flats already machined in to make adjustment easy.
My original plan was to make similar parts out of steel.
These would not only make my life easier but they're cheaper too, and if I do hit a pothole and bend one, its a $10 replacement and I don't have to machine anything.
I would use these for the rear suspenion links on an 88 Fiero. 7/8" diameter 5/8" thread for the lateral links and the 1" diameter 3/4" thread for the lateral links. The sleeves for my poly bushings are 5/8" and 3/4" already so I have the rod ends ride on those. It's all plug'n'play!
You guys think these will hold up?



EDIT: Just changed the thread title.
EDIT #2: Added link to my finished part list later in the thread

Find out what alloy of Al they are using, heat treat specs and all. I am sure they would work but they might have a lower service life depending on the number of stress cycles they can see compared to a steel link. Just would depend on the Al they are made of.

Try it out.

Concur. I was going to post that earlier, but the system ate it.

I will find out. They're closed already (damn East-coasters) so I'll have to call tomorrow.
I would hope they're 6061-T6.. I don't think the racers use anything else structurally.

Ya most likely the are but never hurts to ask. Also, you may wanna increase the wall thickness of the tubes a little just to give some extra rigidity.

I drive by that place everytime I go to Tampa. Always wondered what they did there....

7075 and 2024 get used a lot.

Series8217 wrote:I will find out. They're closed already (damn East-coasters) so I'll have to call tomorrow.
I would hope they're 6061-T6.. I don't think the racers use anything else structurally.

eHoward wrote:7075 and 2024 get used a lot.

Ahh, you're right, I was thinking in terms of parts that get welded. No welding here so 7075 or 2024 would be good because of the significantly higher strength..

Isn't 2024 pretty susceptible to corrosion?

The Dark Side of Will wrote:Isn't 2024 pretty susceptible to corrosion?

yeah

So..

What's the verdict?

Didn't get a chance to talk to them on the phone as I've only been free after class.. when they're closed. Damn East Coast
I did leave an email a few days ago with another vendor and the manufacturer. No reply yet.

-Steven

Now that I have an '88 in my stable, I am looking at these.

Aren't all the pivot bolts for the lateral links 12mm?
They'd need sleeves to run the 5/8" rod ends, but that's no big.
Chassis shop rubber boots too, of course.

Where do I get greasable rod-ends?

Aurora Bearing makes greaseable rod ends.

Cool.

http://www.aurorabearing.com/

That's a lot of variety. I'll have to call and see what they'd recommend for the application. I don't like that I have to request a quote... that scares me. Are they friendly quotes?

Lots of racers use NMB bearings if they arent using Aurora
Here's a source:
http://www.bakerprecision.com/rodend.htm

They are kinda a "high end" company, but I think that they are worth it.

Tell 'em you want the Formula SAE discount.

:thumbleft:

The Dark Side of Will wrote:Cool.

http://www.aurorabearing.com/

That's a lot of variety. I'll have to call and see what they'd recommend for the application. I don't like that I have to request a quote... that scares me. Are they friendly quotes?

The toe link is about 11 3/4" c-c and the lateral link is about 12 3/4" c-c.

McMaster-Carr lists some 5/8" greasable steel rod ends for $8.30 each. The distance from the proximal end of the threads to the center of the ball (Dim D minus Dim E in McMaster speak) is 1". The threaded shanks themselves are 1 5/8".

With 3/8" per end for jam nuts, the tube for the lateral link should be 10" long. This will thread the shank into the tube by 1 1/4".

For the toe link, the ideal length would be 9", but this wouldn't allow much room for adjustment. Stepping down to an 8" tube will give 1/2" (PLENTY) of adjustment at each end. The rod end would have 3/4" of threads in the tube, which I think is fine.

Just have to verify that the tubes are tapped 5/8-18 and not 5/8-11.

McMaster P/N's:
5/8-18 greasable steel rod-ends, male shank: 4444T4 ($8.30 ea; specify RH or LH threads when ordering)
5/8-18 plain steel jam nut, LH thread: 99612A159 ($5.82/pack of 10)
5/8-18 plain steel jam nut, RH thread: 94846A535 ($10.53/pack of 25)

If you REALLY want to spend some money...
5/8-18 Ultra strength rod-end, RH male threads: 4483T701 ($28.18 EACH)
5/8-18 Ultra strength rod-end, LH male threads: 4483T702 ($28.18 EACH)

www.chassisshop.com makes rod-ends boots to keep road grit out of rod-ends. These are absolutely essential for a street-driven application. Fortunately, they are also cheap.

Both ultra strength and greasable rod-ends are 3/4" thick, so they'll need spacers to work with the '88 cradle & stay parallel out to the knuckle.

This could be done for $130ish depending on what you use for spacers (washers will work on the inboard ends, for instance).

I have all the parts now, just no time to install them. Probably will get it done around the beginning of summer.
WCF is selling a setup for 88 Fieros now.