Real Fiero Tech

I have to check. Who here has a rear sway bar bolted to the Lower Control Arms on a Pre 88?

I'm asking cause I personally think it's a BAD idea.

I am using '88 sway bar bracket swapped left for right and ~11" end links. I still bolt my bar to the bottom of the cradle... I just have it a few inches further back than usual so that the end loops are not under the control arms... I'll see if I can find a pic...

Exactly what I'm talking about! Pretty cool using the square tubing.

How close is the lowest part to the ground?

Now that is creative! Have you had any mechanical problems since you installed it that way? (The brace is holding up? )

Why do you think it is a BAD idea?

txf wrote:How close is the lowest part to the ground?

The bar sits prett much level when the car's on the ground. I've only lowered it an inch in the rear (have Koni coil overs now)...

eHoward wrote:Why do you think it is a BAD idea?

I would guess for bending loads on the control arm.
Also, mounted to the struts as mine is, the same bar will give ~40% more roll stiffness because of the improved motion ratio over control arm mounting.

Cause the pinch ball joint isn't made to resist vertical movement. just side to side. this is also due to it not needing to support the Tension of the strut. Look at the diagrams. This is mainly effected IF you don't have the pinch bolt torqued to spec.

There have also been people who have had ball joints fail during cornering with the control arm setup.

Any GOOD ball joint shouldn't be prone to this, but hell, A sway bar where it isn't supposed to be - with 20 year old ball joints, LETS DO IT!

Hmmm how do the Yoko's ride, Will?

txf wrote:Cause the pinch ball joint isn't made to resist vertical movement. just side to side. this is also due to it not needing to support the Tension of the strut. Look at the diagrams. This is mainly effected IF you don't have the pinch bolt torqued to spec.

I hear what you're saying, BUT... GM bolted the sway bars to the control arms on A-bodies (and maybe X-bodies, too) which have exactly the same suspension setup.

txf wrote:Hmmm how do the Yoko's ride, Will?

Ride? What's ride?

Those are Kumhos (Ecsta Supra 712's)... They're pretty good for the money, but they're still cheap tires.
I'm running Firehawk SZ50-EP's now and they are MUCH better... well worth the 50% increase in cost.

Geez that's right. I remember the tread pattern as a pattern we had on our Eclipse at one point. But we had Kumho Supras first then went to Yokos Second.

Good ole Discount Tire

I ran the supra's as well, but upgraded to the Kuhmo MX's.......MUCH better.

txf wrote:Cause the pinch ball joint isn't made to resist vertical movement. just side to side. this is also due to it not needing to support the Tension of the strut. This is mainly effected IF you don't have the pinch bolt torqued to spec.

Seems moot since the 88 used this configuration. That's an 88 sway bar, right? Not a recycled front bar? Heck of a drop on those sway bar links, and rigid as all get out.

Recycled front bar from early car... just using '88 brackets on the struts.

It's a nice setup. I really like it. The tubing is aluminum and weighs almost nothing. With the rubber boots on them, the rod ends are holding up pretty well, too. They're hardened steel units that cost $25 each from McMaster car.
I have a set of 8Shark pillow blocks that will go on when I get the car back on the road.

As you may be able to see in the pictures, I also have aluminum cradle bushings and hard suspension bushings (UHMW).

Jinxmutt wrote:There have also been people who have had ball joints fail during cornering with the control arm setup.

Any GOOD ball joint shouldn't be prone to this, but hell, A sway bar where it isn't supposed to be - with 20 year old ball joints, LETS DO IT!

Mine Rear Bar Works Great ...Never Had Any Problems ..Maybe Others Car's Need So Ball Joint Work hmmmmmm

well, I see what you are saying with the balljoint & pinch bolt. the suspension/a-arm is ALWAYS being pushed down by the weight of the car, so the sway bar NEVER has to PULL the a-arm down, and the up direction, it has a shoulder, so it wont be loading the pinch bolt either.