Real Fiero Tech

I am damn near done with my juice install on my dual intake but I have no place for the WOT switch, since it isn't stock anymore.

Do you have any pictures of how you are hooking up the throttle body(ies) to the accelerator cable? That might help us get an idea on where to mount the switch.

NX makes a device that you can wire into your tps sensor and when it reads a certain voltage it kicks the solenoids open.

It just splices in to your current wiring harness so no need to fab up a bracket.

I think cost is $80

I saw pics of your setup on OE, are your tb's even going to be able to open up with the nozzles installed in them? Did you even test that they would?

Show pics for everyone

Shaun41178(2) wrote:NX makes a device that you can wire into your tps sensor and when it reads a certain voltage it kicks the solenoids open.

It just splices in to your current wiring harness so no need to fab up a bracket.

I think cost is $80

Yeah right... like he can afford that. :la:

http://realfierotech.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=4994

Will do the same. Probably $20 worth of parts if you're electronics savvy

here is the pic. Will the tb blade even be able to open fully?



Also why did you drill out the tb and not a rubber coupler that you can connect to the tb? What you did baffles me.

yeah they open, Why wouldn't they. Man you assholes give me no credit...oh well.

Dude we told you a few options so dont' pout

I bet you dont' even plan to run a rubber coupler and thats why you drilled the tb directly. I mean the link bar is placed right in front of the TB for crying out loud. I mean dang dude thats just poor execution. And you wonder why maybe you get no credit? at least from me anyways wont' speak for the others.

you should have gone with a common shaft setup, I doubt the the TB are in EXACTLY the same place for the shaft to pass through each perfectly - you aked for options, this is simply what I would do...... But I would just slap one huge goddam throttle body on the whole thing and call it a day instead of spending all this time jerking off over 2 STOCK throttlebodies.......


ok, that is all - going back to my K5 Forum now.......

something about spraying a nitrous oxide fuel mix at the very end of an open tube makes me nervous.

Pulse jet?

Wooo! Sidethrust!!! Killer drifting! :thumbleft:

Shaun41178(2) wrote:I bet you dont' even plan to run a rubber coupler and thats why you drilled the tb directly.

Nylon stocking airfilter... for the block. :la:

Thats Ugly, and im not saying it to shit on you. I think proper execution is important with this setup. Extending the wires and rotating the TB 180 deg. then using a common shaft and gearbox would have been slick. Instead you didnt even wire brush the welds to clean the spatter.

No points given.

I don't give two shits about some damn aesthetics this is my rat rod that I have fun in. I'm into racing not car shows. The reason the bar is in the way is because the fabricators that made it made each plenum equal to each side which are off set on the middle intake stock. So 1 TB is a little further out than the other. If they would have been aligned perfect then I would have used a link bar that was of a better design. I will admit the execution on this intake was piss poor but not everything comes out perfect the 1st time around. I asked a lot of Q's but received vague answers/explanations. Whether the TBs are stock or not it still performs damn well for the cash invested. I have learned a few things that will be changed the next time around.

personally I'd just remove the ugly ass bar and use a cable linking the two throttles or a cable splitter farther back in the line that would send two matching ends over to the throttles.

the single cable linking them would be easy, could get all the parts necessary from a bike shop for about 5$ and it would allow fine adjustment with a screw mount to sync the tb's

then you could make an actual cold air intake for it and make the wet wetup safe.

just a suggestion.

Would you be able to provide pictures of what you are talking about for reference? At the time the bar idea was the best thing smoking to get my intake to a functional state. I'm looking at different ideas on the net but none are similar to my setup because my throttle rotors are side by side instead of in series. I'll keep looking though. I may just have a spacer made to even out the TBs then make a better linkage cable.

basicly take the throttle cam "wheel" off another fiero TB, attach it to the primary TB (the one with the cable from the pedal). but attach it rotated 180*. then attach a double ended length of cable from that wheel to the other TB. use the screw in cable adjusters in the bracket to synchronize the TB plates. or put two slots in add on throttle cam so you can adjust its angle for the adjustment.

I could make a drawing if you really need one.

Bonus points if it's in crayon... On a burger-king napkin. :thumbleft:

Mach10 wrote:Bonus points if it's in crayon... On a burger-king napkin. :thumbleft:

then i'd have to scan it - MS paint is more likely

One thing I've never seen implemented on these setups is a link rod using small universal or CV joints. Is there a good reason for this? They're not that expensive in the size we're talking about and are readily available at RC racing shops...

Trot, the curious, fox...

How much force can those things take? The return spring on the throttle isn't monstrous, but it isn't exactly a slouch, either...

If it's strong enough, it'd probably work well, if you can build a frame for it to stop it from flexing... :thumbleft: