Another 3.4TDC Turbo up and running

[The Dark Side of Will]

I know you're running the 4 speed, but you can get a 282 equipped with a factory HTOB and not have to worry about adapting anything.

[coinage]

Im going to order the HTOB today, the tech guy at QM said its pretty straight forward and it comes with the bleeder line and an AN fitting. I have the FS clutch hard line and it a removable SS line that runs to the slave that that makes running the line to it easier. Space is the only thing I'm concerned about really...The collar is a little over 2" long, the bearing overall is 2.31 tall, so when I get the tranny out again I need to figure out my clearances. I need about 1/8" clearance from the fingers to the bearing at rest and then i need to come up with a pedal stop I think.

[The Dark Side of Will]

The collar? You mean the sleeve that the TOB rides on? If the HTOB is taller than that sleeve at rest, it won't fit.

[Atilla the Fun]

One alternative to a pedal stop is spacing the master cylinder forward. I'm doing that to my car since Joseph Upson? did it on Old Europe, his thread now runs 10 pages. I'm making spacers out of 1/8"-thick sheet steel, they'll also somewhat spread the load, reducing firewall flex and improving pedal response and predictability.

[coinage]

Small update, HTOB was a bust, sent the old mechanical TOB to QM to be rebuild, $40 to rebuild it,not bad. Also in the process of getting the car to my buddies lift I fucked up the fingers on the PP so that also went back to QM for new fingers.

Got the old shitty clutch fork out and a new one in, anyone have any suggestions on extra bracing so this one doesn't get FUBAR'd?

Also, any ideas for a pedal stop?

Moved my MAF a little further from the TB in hope of fixing a stalling issue. Header wrapped the crossover and slave and made a heat shield for it also.

I should have my parts here Monday/Tuesday, and if all goes to plan, I am trying to get to the track next Saturday for a few nice easy pulls/no launch. I need to get some miles on it this week if I want to do that.

More to come soon hopefully

[coinage]

One alternative to a pedal stop is spacing the master cylinder forward. I'm doing that to my car since Joseph Upson? did it on Old Europe, his thread now runs 10 pages. I'm making spacers out of 1/8"-thick sheet steel, they'll also somewhat spread the load, reducing firewall flex and improving pedal response and predictability.

Got anymore info on this?

[Shaun41178(2)]

you could try shortening your slave rod, if you do it correctly, the slave piston will hit the snap ring preventing it from moving further forward thus acting as your stop.

[coinage]

Would that move the engagement down lower?

[Shaun41178(2)]

No. it just changes the relationship between the piston and the end of the slave. the pedal is in the same spot since its a hydraulic system.

[coinage]

Ah, I get what you're saying now

[Erik]

looks great. should make good power once fully tuned in. I am guesing you are using a factory computer with a chip?

My dohc turbo drives fine around town but needs WOT tuning. Even on boost it doesn't feel like its making any power.

Thanks, normal driving is great except that it has a stalling issue at the moment, stalls when you take it out of gear while cruising,like when coming to a stop...whether the clutch is in or not.

The more I drove it yesterday the better it got, I only went WOT a few times but the WB hovers around low 10s. Its pretty ballsy in its current state, my buddy with a 500whp cobra was impressed. Car sounds amazing too (no muffler/cat,just a 3" DP).

Did you use the the clutch switch setup?

[coinage]

I had talked to Darth about it and he said the computer didn't use a clutch switch so hooking one up wouldn't help.

I have a few ideas Im working with right now, MAF too close to TB, TB blade closing too much,BOV out of adjustment, or even just IAC tables...

Been busy lately with this...


Worked on the car a little last night, clutch back together and tranny on. Back on the cradle. Just buttoning everything back up and it should back on the roads in a week maybe when I get some time.

[Erik]

I had talked to Darth about it and he said the computer didn't use a clutch switch so hooking one up wouldn't help.

I have a few ideas Im working with right now, MAF too close to TB, TB blade closing too much,BOV out of adjustment, or even just IAC tables...

Been busy lately with this...

.

yeah that takes top priority for sure

I did create a relay circuit that will ground 2 wires on the ecm when the clutch is pushed in per Ryans instruction if you had problems with stalling ..if you need to know what to do to use it just let me know

[coinage]

I dont even have a clutch switch in the car as it was an auto car when I got it, and just never decided to put it in, but remind me how to wire it back in if you could.I have the wires under the center console still so it shouldn't be too bad.

[Atilla the Fun]

I had talked to Darth about it and he said the computer didn't use a clutch switch so hooking one up wouldn't help.

I have a few ideas Im working with right now, MAF too close to TB, TB blade closing too much,BOV out of adjustment, or even just IAC tables...

Been busy lately with this...


Worked on the car a little last night, clutch back together and tranny on. Back on the cradle. Just buttoning everything back up and it should back on the roads in a week maybe when I get some time.

If I get me one of those, will it make my car go faster? But seriously, If I got me one of those, my Fiero would never get any farther done.

[coinage]

Needless to say that progress has slowed down because of the decrease in time and money, but I still need a hobby so the car will get finished as all I need to do is get the motor back in the car and put some miles on it. Fine tuning will most likely be done come tax return time. The mail order tune I have from Darth is far from perfect right now but is decent enough to drive with cruising is perfect and WOT is pretty rich so I am safe. 8.8psi should be good for well over 300whp for now which is more than enough (for now).

[Atilla the Fun]

If it's rich and you didn't do any porting to your heads, then the solution would be easy.

[coinage]

Heads,intakes and exhaust mani's are ported. I'm fine with it running rich for now.

[Atilla the Fun]

If you have closed-loop at part throttle, you could drop your fuel pressure as low as 29 psi before it becomes an issue for the injectors.

[coinage]

Just thought I would bump this up. I am probably going to try to sell the car here soon, and I figure I should probably put some more miles on the car.. Need to buy a house and I can only keep on toy, and thats definitely going to be the M3.

Anyways;
So far it has been running great! WOT, not so much. It needs tuned horribly as under WOT, the AFR's go pig rich into the 9's. It is also breaking up but I am think it could be pulling timing from the open downpipe being loud as fuck and/or from the overly rich condition.

Things that I want to get done here soon include:
-Finish routing exhaust out back with resonators
-Hard piping for IC water lines through the engine bay
-new throttle cable
-Play with the power enrich tables in the tuning