The Mule rides again (sort of) - pics.

[The Dark Side of Will]

This is the sort of repair I was looking for:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTY_OpX3dvQ

Thanks, Howard!

Any suggestions for repair methods for RRIM fender panels?

[The Dark Side of Will]

Orange springs?

You should be able to repair those cracks. I wouldn't go looking for a new bumper.

Orange springs are stockers, powder coated.

[The Dark Side of Will]

So this is the best dyno run with everything hooked up as it should be:
Note that the AFR is climbing toward 14:1 at the limiter.



Because the 255 HP dyno run I had made in Pensacola was made with the IAT unplugged (I didn't know and found out after the fact) I unplugged the IAT and made another pull. The open IAT circuit caused the computer to think the air temp was -40 or so and add fuel appropriate for the calculated density. This brought the AFR at the top end down to 12.5 and gave me that critical last 7 HP to hit 300.



Another interesting thing that I found out is that the limiter is in fact and *always has been* only 5800 RPM (EDIT: Maybe... maybe not). These and the Pensacola dyno run indicate 5800 redline (EDIT: not so much... see below). My tach doesn't read correctly. I recalibrated it by replacing the caps, but that didn't work as expected for some reason (maybe because I accidentally lifted a trace). I hadn't been able to watch the datastream on my Caddy instrument panel previously, because I was... you know... driving the car. I was able to watch it on the dyno and it confirmed 5800... wow.

So there's 1200 more RPM waiting for me in the Shelby computer. Sweeet.

EDIT: Found my old Dyno graph!



This one goes to 6400... WTF? Why am I limited at 5800 now?

[Shaun41178(2)]

very good and broad powerband. It appears there is still a bit of climb in the hp even at 5800 rpm. You could have another 5-10 hp there with more rpm.

So your rev limiter hits at 5800 then? Maybe a final run down of the mods so we don't have to search again for them?

[The Dark Side of Will]

Custom cut CP pistons w/ 11.5:1 compression (10.3 is stock)
Total Seal diamond finish gapless top ring and ring set. Ring grooves matched for .001 side clearance
Ceramic crown and moly skirt coatings from Calico
Eagle 4340 H-beam rods
Crank weight relieved and balanced as discussed here: http://realfierotech.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4522
.035 quench clearance w/ Cometic MLS gasket. Gasket bore within .010 of block bore to minimize crevice volume.
Ported bay-to-bay breathing windows
Timeserts in head and main bolt holes
ARP 204-4204 head studs for VW
NGK TR6GP #5141 spark plugs (one heat range colder than stock)
Magnecor plug wires
CHRFab valvesprings and retainers

[CincinnatiFiero]

Nice dyno numbers!

Considering your mods, you could definately make use of an extra 1,200 rpms. You've got the valvetrain and the balancing for bigger rev's. Would love to see a dyno of it able to touch 7,000rpms.

[The Dark Side of Will]

I think the more impressive list is the list of handicaps...

-Mitre welded intake pipe (plans in work to build one out of mandrel bends)
-Junk paper filter in the engine compartment (will replace with K&N behind the quarter panel)
-STOCK throttle body
-STOCK intake manifold
-STOCK heads
-STOCK cams
-STOCK cam sprockets/timing
-STOCK exhaust manifolds (improvement in work: phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=17372 )
-2" dual straight exhaust (2.5" catalyzed exhaust in work)
-Crappy tune w/ 5800 RPM limiter (Shelby PCM with 7000 RPM limiter in work: phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=16965 )

Taking it here on Friday: http://www.75-80dragway.com/

[benchracing]
I'm looking for 12.4's at 110-ish in current configuration.
With intake tube, exhaust manifold & pipe improvements and the Shelby PCM, I'm guessing it could hit 340 whp. There could easily be 20 HP in the tune with timing.
With 3.94 gears and maybe the Tilton clutch, I think it could run 11's...
[/benchracing]

[The Dark Side of Will]

Found my old dyno graph! See above...

The old one goes to 6400... WTF? Why am I limited at 5800 now?

My shortblock helped top end a LOT. At 5800 on the original graph, it was pushing 225 ftlbs. At 5800 on the recent graph, it's making 270 ftlbs. That's over 45 ftlbs at the top-end, on top of 20 ftlbs peak... dayum.

[Shaun41178(2)]

blueprinting, and higher compression helped keep the tq up in the upper rpms for sure. Less frictional losses too.

Curious as to why the dyno chart isn't showing you hitting the rev limiter.

[The Dark Side of Will]

I figured out why I'm limited to 5800 RPM now... I was hitting the *SPEED* limiter on the dyno in 4th. I remember my dad mentioning that it was showing 115 mph road speed when I hit the limiter. Getting into the way back machine, I remembered that a guy had put two powertrains into his Cadillac a number of years ago. It was called "Twin-star". It has a 275 HP LD8 powertrain under the hood an a 300 HP L37 powertrain in the trunk. He said the front powertrain would hit its 115 mph limiter in the 1/4 mile and the rear powertrain would push the car through the traps.

Since my chip is based on an LD8 calibration and I now have a *functional* VSS that the PCM understands (I had the Fiero VSS in Pensacola), I'm hitting the limiter on the dyno in 4th.

Not sure why the new curve doesn't show the drop at the limiter like the old curve did.

So I'm going to have to unplug the IAT *AND* the VSS to get a good solid run... Lol.

[Shaun41178(2)]

was your previous dyno done in third gear? How were you able to get it to go to 6400 before?

[The Dark Side of Will]

The ECM actually knows what speed the car's going now. It didn't before.
I now have the mangetic reluctor VSS wired directly to the ECM.

Previously I had the Fiero gear driven VSS wired to the Fiero speed sensor buffer, with its output wired to the ECM. The ECM was essentially out of the equation because the Fiero signal was too low a frequency.

No big... if I'm ever on the dyno again with this computer, I'll unplug the IAT *AND* the VSS to get a full pull. At this point, that's not worth $100 because I already have the number I was looking for. However, the same dyno operator is going to be at a car show this weekend. I don't know the rates, but if he'll do it for less coin, I may give it a shot.

However, now that I see how far out of tune this computer is, my next big drivetrain mod is likely to be the Shelby computer.

[The Dark Side of Will]

99% sure that DFCO works now that I have the right VSS. ECM cruise control might work now too. I'll have to whip up an adapter harness to go from the connection to the Fiero cruise module to the PCM, but which will have to also be adaptable to the electro-cruise I'll eventually put on the car.

All the throttle-by-wire PCM use the 58x reluctor wheel, don't they?

[fieroguru]

All the throttle-by-wire PCM use the 58x reluctor wheel, don't they?

Nope, the E40 used on the first couple of years of the LS4 had the 24 reluctor and DBW.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Are there aftermarket 24x rings that can be swapped to the 58X cranks?
I think there are 7x rings for the V6/60's that can be swapped for the factory 58x ring, which I believe is removable from the crank.
If so, I might be able to modify a Northstar crank to accept that wheel.
Northstars through '99 use a unique 32x wheel.

[fieroguru]

The GM part # for the 24 tooth reluctor wheel is #12559353 and can be purchased for under $20.
BS3 also sells some kind of 24 tooth reluctor (JMI-007-006) for $70, but not sure what it looks like.

[The Dark Side of Will]

You're a fountain of part numbers aren't you?

The Northstar reluctor wheel is in the middle of the engine, so it's less likely to be removable than the one for the LS series...

However, there's a possibility that the 58x Northstar crank has a removable reluctor, which may make it possible to swap in the 24x reluctor to use the LS4 PCM...

Of course for all that trouble, one could also just *BUY* a 58X Northstar engine and use the hacked LS series PCM's, assuming the crank reference angles are compatible or if not that the LS ECM can be tuned to work with the Northstar's reference angle.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Was rained out at the strip on Friday and the dyno operator didn't make it to the show Saturday. Planning to hit the strip this coming weekend.

[teamlseep13]

You're a fountain of part numbers aren't you?

The Northstar reluctor wheel is in the middle of the engine, so it's less likely to be removable than the one for the LS series...

However, there's a possibility that the 58x Northstar crank has a removable reluctor, which may make it possible to swap in the 24x reluctor to use the LS4 PCM...

Of course for all that trouble, one could also just *BUY* a 58X Northstar engine and use the hacked LS series PCM's, assuming the crank reference angles are compatible or if not that the LS ECM can be tuned to work with the Northstar's reference angle.

FWD and RWD(LH2 and LC3) 58X reluctor wheel (which for FWD starts in 2006 for RWD its 2005) is cast into the crankshaft in the middle of the crank. The 58X cranks have two crank sensors mounted in a single sensor housing mounted in the valley of the engine block which is different from the pre 2005 Northstars as most of us know.

If you do buy a 58X crank engine, know that EFiLive and HPtuners have support for those engines but I personally have not seen how much support or how detailed you can play with things inside the ECM.

[The Dark Side of Will]

I sent The Mule's original steering wheel and shift knob to http://www.dallassteeringwheel.com/ to be reskinned.







It was kinda pricey, but looks like top notch materials and work. I'm worth it.