To build the ultimate 3.4 DOHC: Turbo DYNO NUMBERS

[fieromadman]

Well it's began again. Opening day at the track is April first and I wanted this done before then so its time to start busting ass on it. Do I think that it'll be done before then? Nope. But sometime in April would be great. I got another AN fitting for the oil pan that still doesnt work and i'm not sure that there are any left to try so i might have to have the pan redone. It sucks but oh well, there's worse things in life. I ordered push-lock vaccume line fittings and vaccume line. I dont want to have to worry about the line springing a leak or falling off so why not. I also ordered the nitrile intake tube for the turbo, god I hope that works because it was pricey! Other than that I'm about to order the tubing for my exhaust that I need. Going to go with a 3" donut right away because I'm pretty sure I'll need it.

Other than that I have to wait till later this week to get the car out of storage and in my garage to start working on intercooler plumbing. I also have to pull the engine on it again to do some minor things. I might put that off for a while though we'll see. I need to catch up with the guys at west bend dyno tuning to see if it's going to be possible to get my car in for the tune soon. Thats about it though, really not a ton of work to do but enough to keep me busy for a few weeks when Im not waiting around for parts and ect.

I'll keep you guys updated.

[fieromadman]

Well I got the synapse engineering push lock vacumme lines and fittings. Nifty stuff. I also got all the three inch tubing and bends that I should need. I think I'm going to order some vband flanges and clamp for putting the exhaust on the muffler. I'm debating a flex pipe, but really thinking it would be a good idea.

[Aaron]

I personally don't see the point in having a flex join after the turbo, unless your exhaust will be stiff mounted. Mine is mounted with factory style hard rubber mounts, so the exhaust has some flex in it there.

[fieromadman]

Well I dunno, maybe I wont get a flex joint then. I really wanted a flew joint in the crossover, but not sure whether its worth the hasle of cutting it up again and re welding. Besides, only one wouldnt do me much good considering my turbo mount being so stiff and I don't really have a way of putting a flex pipe on the rear bank of the crossover...

[Aaron]

Now there's where you might have an issue. Being that it's already completed, I'd leave it for now. If it cracks eventually, then solve the problem with a flex.

[fieromadman]

Well, I got the car out of storage and now I remember why I put it away. Too much BS to deal with. Anyhow, I got a few small chores done on it yesterday. Tapped the holes on the crossover side of the turbo inlet flange so I dont have to mess with nuts that wouldnt have fit in there anyhow. I also started to cut up the decklid so the intake manifold will fit. I still need to make one more cut and do a bunch of fiberglassing, but the fiberglassing is low on the priority list.

Need to see about getting the rest of the exhaust made up once I get the vband in. Countless other things need to be done as well.

[Emc209i]

[fieromadman]

Well I got a bit done on it:

Mounted the heat exchanger for the intercooler and ran all the hard and soft lines for it
Finished up the decklid (minus fiberglassing but who cares for now)
Put the front bumper and all the related parts back on finally
Ordered and recieved the turbo heat blanket
Mounted the switch and pump for the IC and ran the wiring
Removed ALL remaining a/c lines and components

Things still needing to be done:

Cold side intercooler tubing
lengthen/shorten some wires for the harness
figure out the heater core/coolent bypass lines
tap a hole in the intake mani for the brake booster
get the spindle for the serpentine idler pulley made
find a container for an overflow/icebox for the air/water IC
exhaust from turbo to muffler
cut out battery tray
resurface flywheel
Do a little cleanup/port work on the intake mani
flare fuel lines
cut soft fuel lines
re-bend hard upper fuel lines
Mount ECU
Put interior back together
Make dogbone brackets
move components on trunk wall for dogbone to mount to
wastegate dump tube
intercooler mounting bracket
shift cable bracket
hood back on
oil pan drain fitting relocated/angled
Blow off valve flange welded on

Parts to buy:

front shocks
rear pass side wheel bearing
Gasket for t-body
Knock gauge
reservior container

Not sure that anybody cares, but thats that... It just helps me alot to make lists. Also, I tooks some pics of progress, but ill wait till i have a better update to post them.

[fieromadman]

I've been moving along nicely on this project. Got the downpipe and intercooler piping done. Made the brackets for the dogbone. Got the spindle for the idler pulley turned, mounted the ECU, started routing wiring in the engine bay, hooked up my boost refrence lines. I basically got everything done that I wanted to get done while the engine was still in so I pulled the engine and started cleaning up the engine bay some more. I still have quite a bit to get accomplished, but i figure about two weeks and it should be ready for the first fire. Hopefully three weeks and dynotuning will be done. Took lots of pictures, I'll post them soon.

[Aaron]

Took lots of pictures, I'll post them soon.

It was soon a few hours ago!!!

[fieromadman]

Ok here are the pictures that I have so far. My friend took some while we were pulling the engine but i havent uploaded them yet.

Intercooler heat exchanger and lines front to back:















REALLY shitty pic of intercooler cold side tubing:


and yes there is clearance between the frame rail and the tubing (about an inch)

One of the intake tube on the turbo (I'm going to need to trim it a bit to get the angle I want, and its tight against the hot side intercooler piping but I dont think it'll hurt anything)



Two different angles of the dogbone bracket on the engine side:





Downpipe:









The v-band flange needs to be welded on yet but otherwise its done. The muffler will have a short section going into it. Still using the flowmaster 80 series for now.

And for anyone interested, things still needing to be done:

lengthen/shorten some wires for the harness
Weld on serpentine idler setup
find a container for an overflow/icebox for the air/water IC
v-band
resurface flywheel
Do a little cleanup/port work on the intake mani
flare fuel lines
cut soft fuel lines
re-bend hard upper fuel lines
Put interior back together
Brake line on trunk wall
wastegate dump tube
intercooler mounting bracket
shift cable bracket
hood back on
oil pan drain fitting relocated/angled
Blow off valve flange welded on

Parts to buy:
Sound insulation
brake line for trunk wall
Knock gauge?
reservior container?

[p8ntman442]

I hate to be the one to say it, but the material your using for your intercooler piping will fail. neither PVC or the tubing your using will hold up to 120*F you could possibly have gotten away with CPVC and some nylon soft lines. That will melt and fall apart.

[fieromadman]

The pvc stood up to a 1000 degree heat gun ok. Sure it softened up so I could bend it but I couldnt touch it for minutes after so it was pretty fucking hot. Also the clear flexible vinyl line should be okay, I also heated that up with the same 1000 degree heat gun to get it to fit over the end of the nipples on the intercooler pump without any problems. It was really damn hot then too. We'll see though. It's not the end of the world if I have to change that stuff out.

[fieromadman]

Here's some pictures from today:

Downpipe is going to be wrapped as well. It needs the v-band welded on yet, but otherwise that piece is done.


crossover is finished up:


Went around cleaning up the engine bay of brackets and such that I dont need any longer. Still have to do a little bit of filling and sanding and painting but otherwise it should be about done.


Also need a bit of heat/sound insulation:






Got the heat core feed and thermostat bypass lines figured out. It was a bit of a problem because of where the turbo sat, and its all very close but it still fits nicely.


Thats it for today. I also got the brake line that goes across the trunk wall removed and i'm going to have to custom bend a new one to keep it away from heat.

[CincinnatiFiero]

What method did you use to get the dog bone mount off?

[fieromadman]

I drilled out all the spot welds and pryed with a prybar until it came loose. It took some effort but it worked out. I didnt remove the stuff on the trunk wall at the same time, that was done earlier and I think that you would have to cut it up to be able to see in there/get the drill in there to drill out all the spot welds. They are plentyful in the area where the dogbone actually attaches to the trunk wall. If you want more info or pics or something I guess just ask.

[Honest Don]

I wasn't talking about ghetto style flexible intake tubes. I was talking about nitrate style stuff... I have a link... here it is sorry i didnt post this earlier I thought that I had since I found the link but I guess not: http://www.turboneticsinc.com/products/ ... gory_id=27

I'll probably just buy one from turbonetics because they aren't that outragously priced.

As for the drain, yeah it is a -10 an line so I guess I'll give it a go.

And I already knew about silicone intakes... I said I wasn't looking for the silicone stuff, I already have bought all my silicone couplers, t bolt clamps, and whatever else from them.

are you talking about something like what I have?




Its a spectre product. Here's the jegs link:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Spectre/865/9751/10002/-1

[p8ntman442]

The pvc stood up to a 1000 degree heat gun ok. Sure it softened up so I could bend it but I couldnt touch it for minutes after so it was pretty fucking hot. Also the clear flexible vinyl line should be okay, I also heated that up with the same 1000 degree heat gun to get it to fit over the end of the nipples on the intercooler pump without any problems. It was really damn hot then too. We'll see though. It's not the end of the world if I have to change that stuff out.

OK, I hope it works for you. remember you were not pressurizing the lines when doing the bending. There is a reason CPVC is code on hot water for houses. Regular PVC cant withstand the heat and will burst with a little pressure applied. I personally was working on a project where we were using similar clear tubing to supply hot tap water to a valve. It burst and water was dripping from the ceiling onto us.

[Aaron]

I too was considering using PVC for coolant lines. I cemented together a 90* curve with two 18" straights on each end, and after it cured poured boiling water into it. Without a few seconds the pipes were malleable, then the cement failed and the water leaked.

[fieromadman]

Well this system will not be pressurized much or at all and I would be shocked if the water were to boil. We'll see, maybe you guys are right, maybe not. Aaron, what did you end up using then?

And as far as the intake tube goes, what I have on there is what I was looking for.