To build the ultimate 3.4 DOHC: Turbo DYNO NUMBERS

[Aaron]

Matt, welcome to the site! Put up a build thread with pics of your car and such, we've got more than a couple 3.4 builds here. I'll be headed back to the rollers soon, to beat you without the correction factor (And hopefully keep all 6 rods where they're at).

Plus, if I understand the systems correctly, you want vacuum on the crankcase under certain situations (PCV).

Mine is setup like this. The PCV is left completely stock, except I have an extra check valve in there that does not allow pressure into the crankcase. So check valve, in addition to the PCV valve. The breather system is what I changed. Instead of running the breather hoses to the suction side of the turbo, I ran them to my catch can. On the 96s, only the front calve cover has a breather line. If I ever get around to it, I'm going to add large breather lines to both valve covers.

Having a filter instead of a catch can is basically the same thing. But at any rate, your PCV should be setup like stock.

[fieromadman]

Call me stubborn, but, I'm not convinced that routing the pcv back into the intake is necessary. I had the pcv with just a breather on it for years... not saying that it was the best thing, because I'm no expert, but I would have thought that I would have noticed some ill effects by now. I know it's important for you to have low crankcase pressure but under boost its going to build up pressure anyhow, even more so with the check valve because the check valve will close and there goes any possible way of removing the built up pressure in the crank case. Sure when you're not under boost having a vacuum source will help you get the pressure lower than just venting to atmosphere but it seems like it would have an ill effect under boost, which is probably where it is most important.

Catch can is a must. I have been planning on doing that for a while for my breathers, but getting the car actually running first is whats more important to me (and my wallet), so that will have to wait.

Matt, I didnt know that you were looking over my thread. Any updates on your car, I heard at the 25th last year that your car had gobbled up another tranny...

[fieromadman]

Engine is back together, engine bay is done. The engine is going back in monday. Hopefully starting it up for the first time in a year monday or tuesday. Took lots of pictures, too lazy and tired to post now. Both the engine and the engine bay are looking pretty damn good though! Going to need to schedule dyno tuning ASAP when I know it at least idles ok.

[fieromadman]

Well the engine is all in and for the most part completely hooked up and ready to go. Still a few minor things to take care of, but nothing much. I loaded the tune into the Haltech, primed the oil pump by turning it over with the injector outputs disabled and then tried to fire it. No success. Well I had noticed that the fuel pump wasn't turning on like it should have been so I looked at the Haltech controlled fuel pump relay. It seems as though it's wired wrong so I skipped down the line and just put a jumper in pin L of the c203 to jump the fuel pump from a positive source. This worked but I soon discovered that I had a fuel leak from one of the connections above the tank! DAMNIT! So frustrated I gave up until tomorrow. I'll patch the leak and find out where everything else went wrong. All the other sensors seem to be functioning correctly so I think that the Haltech is reading fine otherwise. When I cranked it the Haltech seemed to read the right RPM and everything. ANYHOW... here are some pictures of progress leading up to current:

The intercooler overflow/icebox:




Pictures of the process for making a purdy engine bay...










With sound/heat insulation:






Clutch/flywheel installed for a second time, this time the flywheel re-done




Sandblasted and DEI exhaust painted the manifolds... Hope it holds up...


Prepping the engine for install:




FINALLY! A oil drain that works!






I think that my pulley setup turned out really nicely!


Attached the wiring harness to the firewall and got all that stuff ready before putting the engine in...


Got this stuff welded up two nights ago now:


I polished the hell out of the turbo before installing it today:


Breaking my back for this car...


Almost done...


Currently:
















Thats it for now... hopefully a video of it idling tomorrow...

[Matt Hawkins]

Aaron,

It looks good. The first start is always exciting.

Matt

[Shaun41178(2)]

looks good

[fieromadman]

Well thanks guys, but I'm not sure how retard came into play!?

[Aaron]

I think Matt may think this is my build, and put my name there.

Very nice build dude, looks phenomenal. I love seeing different ways of getting to the same place, it hsows what could be improved one each build. My only criticism is the UD pulley. Get rid of that shit, I hated mine. The flickering lights got old fast, and with doublet he factory power, I'd have concerns on the cooling system too. Other than that, like I said, looks great!

[fieromadman]

I rewired the fuel pump and fixwed the fuel leak and it fired right up!

Video later... going to drink to celebrate

[fieromadman]

Here is the video of... technically the second start. Details tomorrow if you guys are interested...

[Jinxmutt]

The build looks good. I would probably consider putting the lock rings on your fuel lines though, just to be safe...

[fieromadman]

lock rings?

[Jinxmutt]

Also, it looks like you're not using a trunk side knock sensor? Does the Haltech only support 1?

Not nitpicking, just tryin to be helpful

Edit, i'm a moron. I thought the fitings next to the turbo were fuel, I just looked closer.

[The Dark Side of Will]

What's the real name for those things? I searched "lock rings" on that website with no hits.

[fieromadman]

Actually I'm using the trunk side knock sensor you just can't see it in the pictures... HOWEVER... the Haltech (remember this is an OLD Haltech) does not support any knock sensors that I am aware of. I have it ran to a knock gauge...

And yeah those lines next to the turbo are -12 coolant lines. Using the stock fuel rail and fittings. I use fuel injection hose clamps that close all the way around the line and clamp similar to a t-bolt clamp. Those -12 an fittings (or at least one of them) is leaking though. Pissing me off... Looks like I'll have to remove the compressor side of the turbo to get a wrench on them to turn the damn things.

Also the engine side of the turbo feed line is leaking. I will have to figure out what that is all about. Still got some kinks to fix and a few things left to fabricate before I hit the dyno.

BTW, what is a good thread sealer? I tried pipe dope but it really doesn't seal up and harden as well as I thought.

Also, Matt if you're still paying attention, are you still using the 38 lb injectors? What is your IGN Divide by set to? What is your duty cycle at max power? The Haltech manual is really unspecific about the concept of ignition divide by. I have it set to 3 which should mean that it fires all the injectors once per rotation of the engine, right? This should thus double the fuel output of the injectors... even though it might (will) puddle, even though it would anyhow since I'm running batch fire. Also Matt, I was wondering what you run for the crank trigger angle BTDC. I have mine set at 60 right now upon the recommendation of others running Haltech's on 60 degree v6's. I think at one time you told me 67 degrees though?

[Jinxmutt]

They're actually stainless steel band clamps.

http://racepartsolutions.com/products.asp?cat=18

[Matt Hawkins]

Also, Matt if you're still paying attention, are you still using the 38 lb injectors? What is your IGN Divide by set to? What is your duty cycle at max power? The Haltech manual is really unspecific about the concept of ignition divide by. I have it set to 3 which should mean that it fires all the injectors once per rotation of the engine, right? This should thus double the fuel output of the injectors... even though it might (will) puddle, even though it would anyhow since I'm running batch fire. Also Matt, I was wondering what you run for the crank trigger angle BTDC. I have mine set at 60 right now upon the recommendation of others running Haltech's on 60 degree v6's. I think at one time you told me 67 degrees though?

I am running 38 lb injectors. I will check the rest when I get home. Glad to see you have it running.

[darkhorizon]

I get flamed for using a rubber oil return and he doesnt? I really just dont understand people

[Matt Hawkins]

What is your IGN Divide by set to? What is your duty cycle at max power? The Haltech manual is really unspecific about the concept of ignition divide by. I have it set to 3 which should mean that it fires all the injectors once per rotation of the engine, right? This should thus double the fuel output of the injectors... even though it might (will) puddle, even though it would anyhow since I'm running batch fire. Also Matt, I was wondering what you run for the crank trigger angle BTDC. I have mine set at 60 right now upon the recommendation of others running Haltech's on 60 degree v6's. I think at one time you told me 67 degrees though?

I am running divide by 3. I think I am running at ~85% at max power. I am not completely sure but this is ballpark. I am running 67 degrees I think. I could never get a good answer as to the angle orientation from the output. I set mine there and started tuning.

[The Dark Side of Will]

I get flamed for using a rubber oil return and he doesnt? I really just dont understand people

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g194/ ... 200181.jpg

Ask why he's doing it, but don't ask why you got flamed... Someone will take it upon themselves to TELL you...

Where's the thread where you posted a picture of yours?