To build the ultimate 3.4 DOHC: Turbo DYNO NUMBERS

Shaun41178(2) · Post by **Shaun41178(2)** » Thu Jun 05, 2008 12:54 am

you don't need a gasket for that. I just used some copper spray when I bolted my 5 bolt flange to the turbo housing. No problems.

Both parts should be precision machined. Meaning they should both be almost flat. You shouldn't need a gasket there. I just used copper spray.

fieromadman · Post by **fieromadman** » Thu Jun 05, 2008 2:55 am

I'm not asking about the gasket. The holes for the bolts don't line up worth a damn. The surfaces are flat and all is well there. Thanks for the tip on the copper though.

fieromadman · Post by **fieromadman** » Thu Jun 05, 2008 5:18 am

Here are some pictures of the boost gauge install and my intercooler placement and routing ideas.

Pillar pod:

Pillar pod lit up:

How I routed the vacumme tubing for the mechanical gauge (also you can see the PLX harness comming through there):

Now, as for the intercooler, I would really like to place it in the wheel well area on the drivers side. There are a few reasons that I would like to be able to do this. First, there has yet to be an intercooler setup that I like in a Fiero (that I've seen). I want to keep the charge piping short. I don't want to take up my trunk space. And I want to do this cheaply! Here's my plans...

The area:

With the mock-up intercooler in place (should be correct dimensionally. will fit better once rocker is trimmed away)

Where the inlet piping should be able to come through:

The outlet side, should go under the front side of the cradle. Don't expect it to hang down further than the rest of the chassis, then it goes up to the t-body.

And hopefully when this project is done I can pull up next to a newer z06 and be all like:

-Jeff

fieromadman · Post by **fieromadman** » Thu Jun 05, 2008 5:25 am

Forgot to add, this in the intercooler I dimensioned the cardboard mock-up like, and the one i would like to get:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Liquid-I ... enameZWDVW

Kohburn · Post by **Kohburn** » Thu Jun 05, 2008 8:57 am

and the pump and radiator for that will determin how well it works.

fieromadman · Post by **fieromadman** » Thu Jun 05, 2008 1:41 pm

Already bought a spearco pump. I plan on pulling an Aaron and using the a/c condensor as a radiator. That fucker is huge. The only thing I'm worried about with it is the smaller diameter tubing on the one side. Might have to run different tubing and cut and weld on the condensor to upgrade there. I'm going to try stock tubing first though. Just going to have to monitor air intake temps. That should be fairly easy with the Haltech.

Only thing that concerns me is controlling the pump. Constant full duty would probably be overkill. Any ideas here?

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Thu Jun 05, 2008 1:51 pm

fieromadman wrote:Already bought a spearco pump. I plan on pulling an Aaron and using the a/c condensor as a radiator. That fucker is huge. The only thing I'm worried about with it is the smaller diameter tubing on the one side. Might have to run different tubing and cut and weld on the condensor to upgrade there. I'm going to try stock tubing first though. Just going to have to monitor air intake temps. That should be fairly easy with the Haltech.

Only thing that concerns me is controlling the pump. Constant full duty would probably be overkill. Any ideas here?

It is huge, and it is also very efficient at dispersing heat. The only problem is that it doesn't flow very well.

I was going to get all trick in the wiring, but I decided to just put it on a manual switch. I like this a lot better.

However, we got into different control methods in this thread:

phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=12816&highlight=pump

fieromadman · Post by **fieromadman** » Thu Jun 05, 2008 2:17 pm

Well the flow part is what scares me. Have you had a chance to really put it through its paces and monitor air intake temps yet?

Also what did you use for an overflow container and where did you mount your pump?

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Thu Jun 05, 2008 2:55 pm

fieromadman wrote:Well the flow part is what scares me. Have you had a chance to really put it through its paces and monitor air intake temps yet?

Also what did you use for an overflow container and where did you mount your pump?

No I have not.

I don't have an overflow yet, but I'm going to use the washer tank as the overflow.

The pump is mounted below my intercooler, kind of behind the driver's seat area of the frame.

Shaun41178(2) · Post by **Shaun41178(2)** » Thu Jun 05, 2008 5:21 pm

it is hard to get a a/a intercooler in a fiero and have it work well. Stock cat location is decent, and I think where I have mine where the stock muffler used to be isn't bad eihter.

Being an a/w, you can almost stick it anywhere you have room. is your battery still in the stock location? You might be able to fit something over there.

fieromadman · Post by **fieromadman** » Thu Jun 05, 2008 9:55 pm

Battery is in the front. My ecu is there right now, but that is going to be moved obviously when the Haltech is put in because the Haltech is not weather-proof. I dont want to put it thee because of contraints with piping. Trying to keep lag to a minimum. Also being that the turbo and throttle body will be located on the other side it wouldn't make sense.

Shaun41178(2) · Post by **Shaun41178(2)** » Thu Jun 05, 2008 10:26 pm

mounting the intercooler ont he passenger side where the ecm is now isn't going to add anymore lag to your setup then putting in the drivers side vent.

Working on it on the top of the engine bay will make it so much easier too if there are any leaks or what not.

If there is room that is.

fieromadman · Post by **fieromadman** » Fri Jun 06, 2008 3:52 pm

I really can't invision the tubing fitting well over there. I know what your saying though. However, pulling the wheel liner isn't that hard. Also I'd like to keep as much clutter out of the engine bay as possible.

What type of plugs should I be ordering for this?

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Fri Jun 06, 2008 4:48 pm

fieromadman wrote:Also I'd like to keep as much clutter out of the engine bay as possible.

What type of plugs should I be ordering for this?

Good luck with the clutter, I had that goal too. Didn't quite work out. But everything functions well, and the clutter hasn't caused any problems yet.

I am using stock AC Delco Rapidfires.

fieromadman · Post by **fieromadman** » Tue Jun 10, 2008 10:50 am

Well I ordered most everything else I need. There are a few mis. parts that I'm sure I'll stumble upon to get the turbo part of this project done, but for now I think I'm good.

Ordered that intercooler that I mocked up the cardboard replica of
Ordered stainless 2.5" mandrel intercooler piping
Ordered aluminumized 2.5 mandrel exhaust tubing
Already have all the flanges for the turbo/wastegate/bov
Ordered T-bolt clamps
Ordered Silicon connectors

So far my parts list and progress goes as follows:

PLX SM-AFR wideband w/ DM-5 Gauge... Installed
Autometer sport comp 20 psi boost gauge... Installed
Haltech E6k... Harness 75% done (waiting on some information from Matt Hawkins to finish up the rest)
Accell 36# injectors... Installed
Walbro 255HP pump... Installing tomorrow

Parts awaiting fabrication to install:
Synapse Synchronic 40mm Wastgate
Greddy type rs bov
Turbonetics t3/t4 turbo
Spearco intercooler pump
X02 Intercooler
Exhaust piping from turbo to muffler
All intercooler tubing

Still need to order oil lines...
Still need a clutch (going to ride out the stage 2 until it won't take it anymore)
Still need an engine to take the boost I want to throw at it

Will keep you guys updated! Hoping to start tuning the Haltech later this week!

-Jeff

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Tue Jun 10, 2008 2:02 pm

fieromadman wrote: Ordered stainless 2.5" mandrel intercooler piping
Ordered aluminumized 2.5 mandrel exhaust tubing
Ordered T-bolt clamps

Why are you using steel intercooler piping? Do it right, go with aluminum.

I think 2.5 is too small, you will gain quite a bit of power with a 3" exhaust. The bigger the better after the turbo.

Lastly, I hope you don't run into the same problems I did. I bought my T-bolt clamps on eBay, and every one was too small. They were the size as advertised, I just ordered them too small. I ordered them for 1/4" larger than the pipe they were clamping too. Apparently 1/4" wasn't enough. I ened up having to go to a local hardware store that sells T-bolt clamps to get all new ones.

The Dark Side of Will · Tue Jun 10, 2008 2:33 pm

Aaron wrote:
fieromadman wrote: Ordered stainless 2.5" mandrel intercooler piping
Ordered aluminumized 2.5 mandrel exhaust tubing
Ordered T-bolt clamps
Why are you using steel intercooler piping? Do it right, go with aluminum.

Performance difference is NIL, cost difference is significant.
ALLTRBO used aluminum straights and bends and steel Y-pipe for his TT Camaro for exactly that reason.

Kohburn · Post by **Kohburn** » Tue Jun 10, 2008 3:51 pm

for single exhaust tube i would definately recommend a 3" line - even if you have to flair it from 2.5 to 3 after the turbo.

The Dark Side of Will · Tue Jun 10, 2008 4:04 pm

Burns Stainless sells 7 degree cones which can be cut up to accomplish that transition.

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Tue Jun 10, 2008 6:00 pm

The Dark Side of Will wrote: Performance difference is NIL, cost difference is significant.
ALLTRBO used aluminum straights and bends and steel Y-pipe for his TT Camaro for exactly that reason.

The cost difference is actually barely noticable, if you're smart when buying the piping. CAI kits on eBay are cheap as shit. I got 4 90* bends, in 3" diameter, thinwall aluminum tubing, for $30. I can't beat that even wholesale on steel.