custom intake for 3.4dohc turbo

Real tech discussion on design, fabrication, testing, development of custom or adapted parts for Pontiac Fieros. Not questions about the power a CAI will give.

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p8ntman442
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Post by p8ntman442 »

thats gonna get messy.
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Post by Kohburn »

heh thats why everything is covered in plastic wrap
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Post by Series8217 »

NICE notchback, man. It's soooo tempting to go aero after seeing pics of all these sweet spoilerless aero notchies..
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Post by Aaron »

Wow, uhhh, that's one ugly ass intake manifold...

Sorry, I'll stick with stock.




lol j/k, looking good so far, I guess...I'll be impressed when it's done and looks good though. Hold off on sending me the factory UIM until you have it up and running though, just to be safe. I'd like to get the UIM sometime mid-December.
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Post by eHoward »

wow.

Good luck.
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Post by Kohburn »

due to low temps - as of this morning some of it still wasn't hardened and most of it had sagged.. I may have to start over on the foam or use foam thats already solid rather than expanding foam

we'll see if its hardened when I get home today as to weather or not I will have to start over on the foam
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Post by p8ntman442 »

my roomate kicked a hole in our door, and fixed it with that foam stuff, took about a week to harden, and we had about a square foot, 3 inches thick.
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Post by Kohburn »

I realized the plastic wrap I put over it to keep it from getting things messy is probably keeping it from hardening.. may have to go pull that off when i get home -
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Post by The Dark Side of Will »

Using 3M Great Stuff?
Plastic wrap shouldn't have any effect at all. Put a heat lamp on it. Low temps REALLY slow down chemical processes like that.
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Post by Kohburn »

The Dark Side of Will wrote:Using 3M Great Stuff?
Plastic wrap shouldn't have any effect at all. Put a heat lamp on it. Low temps REALLY slow down chemical processes like that.
pulled the foam off last night - only areas exposed to the air had cured - the rest was just sticky goop that when exposed to the air cured in about an hour, so yes the plastic wrap was the downfall - would have been better off using paper towels.

needless to say, that was a flop

however I started carving foam from green floral fome last night - forming actually trumpets for the runners with dividers to the top of the trumpets.. this method is going very well.. after its done i just have to seal it so the epoxy won't stick.. if all goes well I may have it done this weekend and can finally wrap up my tuning
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Post by donk_316 »

I applaud you for actually doing something as opposed to doing what alot of us do...

Talk about doing it and arguing the smallest detail...then doing nothing...

Right on man. Keep it up.
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Post by Kohburn »

donk_316 wrote:I applaud you for actually doing something as opposed to doing what alot of us do...

Talk about doing it and arguing the smallest detail...then doing nothing...

Right on man. Keep it up.
:thumbleft:

it'll all be worth it once i get it tuned and dynoed

also once its complete i should be able to make ceramic molds and replicate it from cast aluminum (using melted down fiero engine parts :angel: ) so if I get to that stage i should have some sweet 3.4dohc intakes for sale
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Post by Oversteer »

Can the spray foam your used be sanded?
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Post by Kohburn »

Oversteer wrote:Can the spray foam your used be sanded?
its a fairly dense closed cell foam - once its fully cured it can be carved/filed/sanded

the green foam is porous and weak, but it can be cut just by shoving a thin metal ruler through it - it only took me a few minutes to duplicate the intake runner trumpet once i had the first one worked up and test fitted in the engine bay to clear the fuel rail.
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Post by The Dark Side of Will »

Kohburn wrote:
The Dark Side of Will wrote:Using 3M Great Stuff?
Plastic wrap shouldn't have any effect at all. Put a heat lamp on it. Low temps REALLY slow down chemical processes like that.
pulled the foam off last night - only areas exposed to the air had cured - the rest was just sticky goop that when exposed to the air cured in about an hour, so yes the plastic wrap was the downfall - would have been better off using paper towels.
Now that's strange. I spray it inside frame rails and it cures fine...
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Post by Kohburn »

The Dark Side of Will wrote:
Kohburn wrote:
The Dark Side of Will wrote:Using 3M Great Stuff?
Plastic wrap shouldn't have any effect at all. Put a heat lamp on it. Low temps REALLY slow down chemical processes like that.
pulled the foam off last night - only areas exposed to the air had cured - the rest was just sticky goop that when exposed to the air cured in about an hour, so yes the plastic wrap was the downfall - would have been better off using paper towels.
Now that's strange. I spray it inside frame rails and it cures fine...
interesting..you do that to keep moisture from getting to the inside of the rail?
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Post by whipped »

The Dark Side of Will wrote: Now that's strange. I spray it inside frame rails and it cures fine...
That you KNOW OF. I did the same thing, and only the top 1-1.5" or so cured. The middle was still soft.
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Post by Kohburn »

the 2 part mixture will cure all the way through - but the great stuff seems to rely on ambient air
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Post by The Dark Side of Will »

I've had situations in which I had to go back into the frame rail (to install a hitch for instance) and the stuff was cured all the way through. I use the triple expanding variety. I don't know how that differs in terms of curing requirements from the minimal expanding variety, which it appears that you used.

Moisture mostly, but it has a few other debatable effects like NVH reduction and structural stiffening.
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Post by Blue Shift »

What is the Great Stuff? Some sorta Urethane? I always thought it cured by some reaction not unlike polyester resin does.

Perhaps its just a plastic dissolved into a solvent with a blowing agent/propellant mixed in? If that's the case, yea it's going to need to evaporate all the solvent out. It probably also means that you could melt it with the correct solvent, as well.
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